Fashion Editorial

Milan Fashion Week | Gucci Fall 2015 RTW Runway

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Gucci’s new creative director Alessandro Michele proved himself a risk-taker right out of the starting blocks, with an unapologetically androgynous men’s show last month and, on Wednesday, a women’s collection that moved the brand from the chic resorts of Capri to any stop east of Third Avenue on the L train. His is a quirkier, younger, more freewheeling Gucci — a bit bohemian like he is, with his scruffy good looks and penchant for patchouli. Models strolled the perimeter of a subway set in clothes with a vintage allure — including gauzy, flower-child dresses, schoolteacher skirts and vaguely Seventies pantsuits — but not sprung from the Florentine firm’s vault. The collection’s inscrutable theme, “The Contemporary is Untimely,” matched its hard-to-put-your-finger-on-it character. Certainly the nerdy, DIY styling and melancholic mood — heightened by stirring strings from “The Hours” soundtrack — marked a sea change from the high-gloss babes that used to charge out under roving spotlights. The designer said he wants to speak to the contemporary world with a more personal, storytelling approach that takes inspiration from “the romanticism that I feel in the street.”“It’s just a relaxed and chic way to dress,” said Michele, a fan of how the cool kids dress in fashion capitals like New York and London. “The cities tell more than what I can I imagine.”

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