De Vincenzo opened with a girl dressed in a hooded gray flying jacket and pencil skirt and Jackie O–size sunglasses with both rainbow-shaded frames—and lenses. That joy in color appeared overtly in the designer’s signature slinky Lurex knits and patterned lamés, or subtly in the narrow piping of variously colored stitchwork on a khaki blouse, or in the silky moss-fringing that was sandwiched and embedded between seam overlaps to define the lines of a sleek black coat.

 Other stylish innovations included bold-collared shearling coats that were embedded with domed white plastic beads of graduated scale, and de Vincenzo’s take on humble denim—transformed in his hands, of course, into patchworked panels of distressed color. “I want to be . . . surprised by my clothes,” said de Vincenzo, who surprised and delighted his audience in turn.