The show opened with stark black-and-white graphics on a trench with vertically striped arms, a horizontally striped hem and a patchwork of checks and triangles on the body. Optically entrancing, the patterns played out on dresses and easy sweaters over full midiskirts that had immediate impact. Considering the source material, the collection had a surprising amount of black, worked sparely on daywear and opulently — often embroidered with gold and silver threadwork — for evening. But there was ample color, too, in the subtle glimmer of gold on multicolored furs; a crimson red gown; burgundy, ice, pink and yellow lace arranged in crafty chevron patterns; the intense blue, red, black and gold of a geometric Viennese patterned gown. There were too many impressive, couture-level treatments to list, all of them impeccable. There were cropped midcalf culottes and skirts the same length. Shoulders had capelet panels in the front and back, and high necks were graced with delicate bows tied to the side. Gowns plunged into deep V-necks, point d’esprit shoulders and sheer bustlines framed with floral embroideries. Romance turned sensual, heightening as the looks marched on. Then it all ended with a big laugh. The show satisfied on every level. Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson, in character as Derek Zoolander and Hansel, were the surprise final exits of Valentino’s fall show.