The Resort season has turned into a mini architecture tour. Karl Lagerfeld set up Chanel operations at Zaha Hadid’s Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Seoul on Monday. Raf Simons will show Dior at Pierre Cardin’s south of France home next week. And today Louis Vuitton had over 800 rooms booked in Palm Springs, California, for the celebrities, international journalists, and clients that assembled here to witness Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest LV collection at the Bob Hope estate.
That unexpected mix of romantic and rebel, like a prairie dress cut with studded harnesses or fashioned from embroidered leather, made for a compelling and modern idea of evening. Ghesquière pointed to the stylings of cool California girls as an influence, those types who regularly combine a winter wardrobe with a spring one (where else on the planet will you find summer dresses worn with fur gilets but in L.A.!), and that approach to dressing felt particularly right for a transitional season. It’s perhaps also why, more than It bags, the rich and varied outerwear stood out in the collection: biker jackets with exaggerated buckled collars, cropped bombers with gothic lacing, and body-skimming patchwork suede jackets spun with curlicue sequin insets. That intricate craftsmanship and attention to detail was a nod back to the codes and traditions of the house, but also showed just where Ghesquière is capable of taking Louis Vuitton.