This year Karl Lagerfeld took Chanel’s Métiers d’art show to his hometown of Hamburg, Germany, presented at the Elbphilharmonie. Designed by Pierre de Meuron and Jacques Herzog on the Grasbrook peninsula of the Elbe River, it’s one of the city’s newest and most daring buildings.
The collection was a poetic homage to the city’s seafaring history, bookended by Coates’ interpretation of the Spanish song “La Paloma.”
“It’s the hymn of Hamburg, in a sense. It was the song that sailors sang when they went to sea and I have heard it all my life, and it’s very, very pretty. The lyrics are pretty, too; it’s the sailor telling his wife, ‘Don’t be angry at me, but I’m married to the sea,’” Lagerfeld said during a preview.
With a modern setting Lagerfeld presented a collection that was heavy on cashmere knitwear from Barrie, made in the small town of Hawick, Scotland. There were mini and maxi dresses in the maison’s intricate patterns, as well as a new range of knit bracelets that doubled as arm-warmers.
Chanel showed an array of tweeds that ranged from opulent evening versions glistening with metallic threads, sequins and appliqués, to daytime options like a foggy gray jacket casually paired with oversize denim culottes. In a nod to the city’s famously harsh weather, Lagerfeld offered quilted versions of Chanel’s signature black-and-white satin jackets, or a fur-trimmed biker coat. There were sailor motifs aplenty, from the middy collar on a burlap-style tweed jacket, to the rows of buttons on inky jumpsuits and wide-leg pants.
The star-studded front-row included celebrities Kristen Stewart, Tilda Swinton and Lily-Rose Depp. Check out the lineup below.