The pre spring summer 2018 collection of Alexander McQueen is inspired by mid-twentieth century couture with a romantic and ultra-feminine silhouettes. By English country gardens, dappled with sunlight and drenched with rain; deconstructed couture, weathered with age; family heirlooms.
Fifties foundation garments are deconstructed and reconstructed; lightweight lingerie-inspired knit dresses feature crinoline bands at the hem evoking caging.
Hand-woven tweed suits and dresses with frayed edges are crafted with feathers and silk rose petals. Pressed flowers appear on silk poplin shirt-dresses, the seams of which are suggestive of boning. An oversized trench coat is reversed and inset with floral jacquards or rural checks. Varying scales of Prince of Wales check come in black, red and ivory, contrasted with sapphire blue satin piped buttonholes and pocket jets.
Knits are scattered with brooches evoking cherished jewellery box treasures. Roses, geraniums, daisies and ivy make their way across silk scarf dresses with handkerchief hems. Trailing foulard details are edged with graphic yellow.
Gardeners’ utility-wear, in tobacco brown raw denim, is top-stitched and embroidered with brightly-coloured seed packets. Flowers are printed and woven across corseted sunray-pleat dresses. Petal print Crêpe de Chine and silk radzimir skirts are crushed and pleated into tiers of cascading ruffles. Trompe l’oeil layered tuxedo tailoring is finished with a hidden Sarabande lace bodice. Perfecto jackets are patched and pieced or waisted with a raw, peplum hem.