For the Dior Fall Winter 2018-2019 collection Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back to the Paris of fifty years ago, when a new feminist spirit was sweeping through the streets.
“Take a look back to a time a half-century ago when revolutionary thoughts and actions were placing the power and energy of youth center stage and influencing generations to come. For Autumn-Winter 2018-2019, Maria Grazia Chiuri tapped into this anniversary, reinventing and reimagining the legacy of those heady times,” Dior wrote, sharing the inspiration behind its show on Instagram.
A multitude of ripped magazine covers, feminist slogans and archival protest posters – all from 1968 – layered one over the other evokes the visual cacophony of voices and messages fighting for space on street walls around the world. As an image, it has a lot to communicate about the Dior Fall Winter 2018-2019 collection.
Ruth Bell opened the show in “C’est Non, Non, Non et Non!” statement sweater. The defiant Youthquake spirit of Paris in 1968, and the nascent feminist movement gathering momentum at the time were expressed by Maria Grazia Chiuri with a slogan taken from an original Miss Dior scarf print. An array of ’60s-inspired patchwork pieces hit the runway in the form of mini skirts, boots and dresses. Magnificent woollen embroideries appear on organza dresses, jeans are reworked and printed, bags are inspired by the House’s archives, with an ethnic shoulder strap or patchworks made of fabrics drawn from the same heritage: these pieces become veritable windows on the world. Ponchos are worn freely. Ornamentation becomes important, acting as ambassadors of the different cultures each type represents. The collection evolves in a spirit of freedom as much in its creation as in its associations, shapes and materials. This act of cutting loose and choosing one’s own image is precisely what Maria Grazia Chiuri sets out for the women of today. Kilts come in different lengths, but also in unexpected materials like point d’esprit, and are paired with masculine jackets or small coats. The abundant knitwear is also embroidered and hugs the body. Dresses have been shortened and are worn over biker-inspired thigh boots. Her sharp fashion instinct guides the designer throughout this return to a singular and incredible time, because changing the world also means changing clothes. Every single look was topped off with a black newsboy cap. See the full collection below.