Loewe Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Jonathan Anderson presented Loewe’s Fall Winter 2018 collection, inside Paris’s iconic UNESCO building, which was populated with Neo-Dada sculptures of Japanese artist Tetsumi Kudo and dotted with fireplaces designed by E.W. Godwin.

In a nod to the world of literature, each seat was also furnished with one of five classic novels, from Gustave Flaubert’s Madame Bovary to Dracula by Bram Stoker, re-published by the brand and which also star in its new season campaign.

A thoughtful aesthetic met with functional craftsmanship on the catwalk too, as Anderson sought to embrace the heritage of the Spanish house, which was founded 172 years ago as a luxury leatherware label.

Accordingly, the fabric wasn’t just reserved solely for bags and shoes, but formed the backbone of the collection from curly shearling coats to full leather evening dresses. It was also a feature in finer details too, on the collar of crisp cotton shirts and spliced into razor pleat lace skirts.

Construction – and often deconstruction – was also a key preoccupation for other aspects of the offering, seen in open split-sleeve tailored jackets and column dresses which revealed bare midriff when sections were twisted with brightly-coloured yarn.

Since his appointment as creative director of the LVMH-owned Loewe in 2013, Anderson’s idiosyncratic approach to design has resulted in double-digit sales growth.

His latest collection was ambitious in its invention and technical in its execution, but the result was a collection which seemed effortlessly unlaboured in both appearance and wearability. Though this, of course, is the sign of a true artist.


Images: Imaxtree


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