This year’s voyage started at the Grand Palais in Paris as nighttime fell over ‘La Pausa’, the CHANEL liner.
After choosing destinations such as Cuba and Seoul to showcase its resort collections, this season Chanel returned to Paris with the objective of celebrating the concept of cruise fashion in a literal sense.
Karl Lagerfeld created a marina, constructing a 330-foot-long ocean liner in the middle of the Grand Palais. Named La Pausa, after the villa in the South of France built by founder Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in the Thirties, the replica ship was the spectacular backdrop for Chanel’s cruise collection, which drew guests including Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart and Lily-Rose Depp.
“I like the idea of boats, of ocean liners during the interwar period and the rest, but in real life, I like houses on solid ground with my stuff all around me. I get claustrophobic [on boats] because you feel like you’re cut off from the world,” Karl told WWD.
Along gangways and out of cabins came models wearing patch pocket suits, tiered dresses and ripped jeans. There was the nautical theme, a blend of relaxed sportswear silhouettes with elements of Sixties pop such as miniskirts, white tights and silver or white Mary Janes, including a version with faintly clinical rubber soles.
The collection hinged on what he called the “flexible dress” — a design consisting of a separate top and skirt that revealed a sliver of midriff. An evening version contrasted embroidered sailor stripes with thick clusters of confetti sequins at the waist and sleeves.
Among the models showcasing this collection were Gigi and Bella Hadid. They were joined by Camille Hurel, Marjan Jonkman, Luna Bijl and Cara Taylor.