Jeremy Scott presented Moschino’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan. “Muses inspire artists, and artists inspire the world,” said Scott. Riffing on the idea that the model is a canvas and clothing can be wearable art, there was a decidedly Pablo Picasso lean to the offering. Several cocktail dresses were shaped like guitars and mandolins, including one worn by Kaia Gerber, which called to mind the artist’s Cubist renderings. Others including Bella Hadid – dressed in a sequin ruffle clown-suit invoking Picasso’s Harlequin – also carried miniature string instruments down the catwalk.
There was a Spanish essence throughout too, from Matador-inspired bolero dresses to polka-dot flamenco gowns. Proportion was also paramount, with supersize structured shoulders and poufy puffball skirts abundant.
But while Scott knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – and in generation Instagram, countless more Likes – this show wasn’t just about showstoppers designed to get iPhone cameras clicking.
Ever the astute businessman – Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, which also owns Alberta Ferretti, reported a rise in net profits of 46 per cent last year with Moschino contributing 72 per cent of the group’s total revenues – Scott was also careful to consider what would translate into retail. As a result, trouser suits decorated with hand-painted prints and a little black dress accessorised with a miniature picture frame brooch were among the collection’s – albeit more subtle – stand out pieces.