Watch Zac Posen break down his latest collection – which Winnie Harlow modeled in eye-popping 360-degree footage
From mega minis to pointy collars, gothic maxis and floor-skimming coats, all the new season goodies to buy now.
As we mourn the last days of summer, the time has come to press pause on the purchasing of strappy dresses and slinky sarongs. Now is the time to get ahead and start investing in some key pieces that will work hard in your winter wardrobe. And this season, the runways were an eclectic mix.
To make sense of the seemingly-anything-goes mishmash of options on offer, we have selected the key trends that we’re convinced will be big this winter.
A prudish aesthetic permeated via sensible suiting, Regency dresses and floor-skimming coats, while sassier dressers were catered for via maximal mini dresses and frou-frou ruffles.
It is a truth universally acknowledged that… softly rounded, Regency-inspired square necklines are set to replace Victoriana pie crust collars for autumn. Darcy-delighting minimalist interpretations were seen at Bevza and Chalyan, while Paul Costelloe’s bosom-bearing floral jacquard would no doubt get Mrs Bennett’s seal of approval.
By now you’re familiar with a warm weather white-out, but who says the all over bleach is just for the beach? Full on frosty ensembles are a crisp and clever way to dress for cooler climes. Models at Roland Mouret and Dolce & Gabbana doubled down on ivory suiting, while Fendi and Chanel showed top-to-toe winter whites worthy of a super chic ski trip. Fresh, versatile and powerful in its purity, head-to-toe snow is a look for all seasons – though best avoided by the mucky eaters.
Billowing sleeves have been a mainstay of our 2019 summer wardrobes, and, for winter, the balloon sleeve has far from burst, in fact it’s been blown a little bigger, and very much migrated up to the shoulders. Anyone in the market for some OTT party dresses should look no further than Alessandra Rich and Richard Quinn, who made the case for floral minis with exaggerated puffball shoulders, while the statement tailoring at Givenchy, Lemaire and Alexander McQueen were office-appropriate ways to tackle the trend.
Bid adieu to summer’s silk headscarves, for winter’s neck gear is brief and beefy. Gabriella Hearst kept short scarves tonal, while Henry Holland knotted neon quilting at jaunty angles and Tod’s wrapped last year’s chunky knits tight about the neck. At Chloe the trend was further truncated with brightly coloured, thick-knit snoods. However you choose to tie ‘em, this season’s message is clear. No flapping tassels, no billowing blankets; do knot mess around.
Ruffle hems and prairie collars have been big on the sartorial agenda for a year now. But come autumn, and one frill will simply not do. According to everyone from Erdem to Ports 1961, Roksanda and Molly Goddard, 2019’s Christmas parties will be awash with frou-frou layer cakes. While not for the faint of heart, the flounce, once mastered, can be truly frilling. Go forth friends, and ruffle some feathers.
Spring’s rounded Peter Pan collars are set to be replaced this season by altogether sharper-necked shirting. Everyone from Alexa Chung to Eudon Choi, Fendi and Victoria Beckham decreed an exaggerated Elvis collar to be boss. Wear over the lapels of your jacket and poking over the top of jumpers for a look that’s kinda nerdy, but that’s the (pointy) point.
The midi dress has had a lot of airtime over the last few years, and frankly her naughty younger sister, the mini, is well overdue her time in the sun. From Christian Cowan’s fuchsia feathered swan-like creations to Attico’s golden foil hearts, this season the mini is back, and in true mini style, she’s mightier and minxier than ever.
OK, we’ll admit, florals as a trend is not (ahem) ground-breaking, but a trend it is, once again. This winter take your cues from Erdem, Simone Rocha, Dries Van Noten and Lela Rose and opt for maxi dresses in hues of purple, black and claret and unapologetically bold floral designs. Think Dracula on date night.
Perhaps it’s the extravagant excesses of material, or maybe it’s the devil-may-care attitude to the inherent risk of rising damp, but there is something so fabulously louche about a floor-skimming, ankle swooshing winter coat. Go oversized houndstooth a la Chanel, or demure dusty pink a la Dennis Basso, but whatever you do, go long.
From opera-ready jacquard at Richard Quinn, to floor swooshing boucle at Chanel and dinky little boleros at Mishka and Dolce, capes were all over the autumn 2019 runways. A good cape has the power to make you feel simultaneously shielded and powerful, not to mention more than a little bit like a superhero. And frankly, in times like these, we could all do with a bit of that.
We got to the point where our teeny tiny bags couldn’t get any teenier. Hell, some of them didn’t even fit an iphone. Fashion’s answer? To embrace the other extreme and advocate larger-than-life totes. Proenza Schouler, Jacquemus, and Stella McCartney all gave us monster holdalls – quite the handful, but at least we have space for all seven of our favourite lip balms.
Do you have a favourite shoulder? No? Best make a decision pronto because only 50 per cent of your clavicle mass will be seeing the light of day come party season. Attico, Halpern and Saint Laurent all made the case for eighties-inflected one-shouldered party dresses, while Alberta Ferretti offered an asymmetrical top that wouldn’t look entirely out of place in a (rather glamorous) boardroom. Best blade forward .
Suits have been a sartorial staple for some time now, and for winter 2019 they’re getting broader shouldered and wider legged. To balance these new proportions many houses showed jackets nipped in at the waist with belts. From the skinny belts on oversized jacket dresses at Acne, to leather disc belts over tawny checks at Khaite, this season’s suiting really is a cinch.
Take a step into the chic, soft-focused world of Jacquemus. A new fashion favorite, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is connecting the warm, joie de vivre sensibility of Provence with the vibrancy of Parisian energy, and possesses a rare quality of genuine innocence and idealism, tinted with a hint of romantic melancholy.
Shop Jacquemus Pre-Fall 2019 collection at Luisa Via Roma.
Spotted. Collars popped in this crisp très chic leopard dotted trench that craves cool, fall afternoons meandering along the windy Seine browsing the aged wooden bookstalls.
Soft, earthy, deconstructed moss tinted pieces combine a lovely sense of natural elegance, with the perfect touch of sensuality for a cumulative effect of irresistible enchantment.
Jacquemus’ new generation French style feels refreshingly sincere and youthful, with his charming, wide-eyed approach to style. Jacquemus is celebrated for his deconstructed, broken-down silhouettes, playing with proportions, and sensational eye for pigment.
Jacquemus’ take on the tailored suit is gamine and intriguing, with it’s soft, folded draping, exquisite wool fabric, and light almond color. Get ready for an afternoon perusing narrow Saint-Germain streets for vintage record stores and smokey cafes.
Drawing upon inspiration reminiscent of ‘80s Parisian haute couture, a playful spirit, and fresh take on classic style, Jacquemus is taking French style through a metamorphosis. Style tip: navy is the new black.
Dior‘s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has been awarded the Legion of Honour hours after the luxury fashion brand’s Couture Fall 2019 fashion show.
The designer was handed the honour by France’s gender equality minister, Marlène Schiappa, who praised Chuiri for her use of feminism and activism in her work.
“Receiving such an important honour in France, which represents fashion and culture, and from the hands of a woman like Marlene Schiappa, who expresses the most important values for me, is a new emotion,” Chiuri said, before calling on young women to “believe in themselves and follow their instincts”.
“Dior is a maison that represents femininity, and for this reason I believe that my commitment is to make women aware of their potential, and I thank the maison that supports me to give a voice to women and their work,” Chiuri said.
“Their commitment can change the world.”
Chiuri started her career at Italian fashion brand Fendi, where she was part of the accessories team that designed the legendary “Baguette It” bag, before working at luxury Italian house Valentino where she eventually became co–creative director with her longtime design partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli.
In 2016, Chiuri left Valentino to become Dior’s first female artistic director and has spent the last three years transforming the brand from one of the most feminine houses to one of the most feminist.
Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrated the 10th anniversary of his label with an epic show, presenting a refined collection, spanning sensuality and elegance, staged in the middle of a lavender field in Southern France, titled “Le Coup de Soleil”.
Models showcased the label’s new collection on a bright pink carpet runway laid out among the rows of lavender. The collection came in white and sunny, uplifting colors, perfectly at home in this spectacular setting. There was also a multitude of floral motifs, harmoniously echoing the show’s location.
There was, however, a certain contrast between the elegance of the pieces designed for this anniversary show — such as floaty, lightweight dresses in long and mini styles, blazers, pleated skirts and suits — and the earthy rusticity of the landscape in which they were presented. That no doubt contributed to the charm of this sun-soaked show.
Oversize designs ruled in this new collection, putting a laid-back, even nonchalant slant on the most refined of silhouettes. There were also plenty of accessories on show, like large hats, belt bags, baskets, sandals and the iconic Chiquito mini bag — a Jacquemus signature.
Every year on the First Monday in May, the Metropolitan Museum of Art hosts the Costume Institute Gala to kick off the opening of its popular fashion exhibit at The Costume Institute. This years theme is “Camp: Notes on fashion” it is all about the art of being extra.
Through more than 250 objects dating from the seventeenth century to the present, The Costume Institute’s spring 2019 exhibition will explore the origins of camp’s exuberant aesthetic. Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp'” provides the framework for the exhibition, which examines how the elements of irony, humor, parody, pastiche, artifice, theatricality, and exaggeration are expressed in fashion.
Bertrand Guyon (French, born 1965) for House of Schiaparelli (French, founded 1927). Ensemble, fall/winter 2018–19 haute couture. Courtesy of Schiaparelli. Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2019
Jeremy Scott (American, born 1975) for House of Moschino (Italian, founded 1983). Dress, spring/summer 2017. Courtesy of Moschino. Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2019
Jeremy Scott (American, born 1975) for House of Moschino (Italian, founded 1983). Ensemble, spring/summer 2018. Courtesy of Moschino. Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2019
Franco Moschino (Italian, 1950–1994) for House of Moschino (Italian, founded 1983). Shirt, spring/summer 1991. Courtesy of Moschino. Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2018
Marc Jacobs (American, born New York, 1964). Ensembles, spring/summer 2016. Courtesy of Marc Jacobs. Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2018
Here are some of the best looks from the Met Gala red carpet, or should we say pink carpet.
The casual 90’s silhouette feels fresh in monochrome separates, clashing raw denim and fine knits with coarse linen. Throwing on sheer snake print pieces tempers masculine lines and puts a modern spin on the classic idea of cool.
Shop the cool combo for Summer 2019 at & Other Stories.
On Monday night in Marrakesh, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her 2020 Cruise collection – a multi-layered cultural dialogue with Africa. It was at the Palais de la Bahia, under a Majorelle blue arbor – a color forever linked to Marrakesh.
The show paid fervent homage to the richness of traditional Moroccan cultures as well as to Dior’s heritage and savoir-faire. For Christian Dior, incorporating Morocco into his designs is a poetic, open and free geography that began with a chromatic homage. The pureness of white, that “usual colour of light” as Isaac Newton put it – to lessen the sun’s impact – predominates in the Maroc ensemble, a dress and coat in white tulle embroidered in silver, from 1951.
This collection is a world map connecting images and ambiances that, on this side of the Mediterranean, have shaped our visual culture. Its original inspiration – and veritable emblem – is Wax print fabric. The anthropologist Anne Grosfilley explores its complex origins and evolution. The incredible story of this fabric unfolds like a family tree, a journey that winds its way from Europe and Asia, extending into Africa. Wax print fabric celebrates and federates diversity; it is the fabric of a cultural melting pot. Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with the Uniwax factory and studio (in Ivory Coast) to reinterpret Dior codes by integrating them into the weave of the fabric for a special edition. Revisited in Wax, new toiles de Jouy come to life, recasting various landscapes or reinventing tarot motifs. The Bar suit, like all the other pieces, exalts the power of fashion as an inclusive, transnational language.
The Dior archives attest to this fascination, in Marc Bohan’s Jungle silhouette or a scarf printed with an African lion that gave life to a savannah bestiary. Landscapes that inspired authors such as Albert Camus, Paul Bowles, Alberto Moravia and Bernardo Bertolucci unfurl across warp prints, jacquards and fils coupés. At the crossroads of culture and emotion, Maria Grazia Chiuri underscores the power of Nature, an evocation punctuated with ecru silk, silk gauze, and shantung that, in shades of sand, indigo or burned red ocher, enhance coats and suits, pleated skirts and trousers.
Through its cultural dialogues, the Cruise collection offers a condensation of diverse realities and temporalities. Fashion itself is a unique fabric inspired by countless places and times that gives rise to a new vision. Through this magical act, Maria Grazia Chiuri projects a collective memory, a common territory that is open to every kind of possibility.