Thomas Maier wrote in his program notes that he was celebrating “the beauty of individualistic dressing,” but this collection felt more like a hedge. Maier presented individual ideals to be sure, but they read more like capsules strung together rather than a cohesive collection. It was an odd […]
The show opened with a long, tailored black trench cut out over one leg to reveal a thigh-high, red patent leather boot with an oddball long, pointy toe and small square heel. The trench’s belt was embroidered with the Greek key logo, which also appeared on the turtleneck […]
De Vincenzo opened with a girl dressed in a hooded gray flying jacket and pencil skirt and Jackie O–size sunglasses with both rainbow-shaded frames—and lenses. That joy in color appeared overtly in the designer’s signature slinky Lurex knits and patterned lamés, or subtly in the narrow piping of […]
The designer Alessandra Facchinetti is still developing the right pitch for Tod’s as a full-fledged apparel collection. Her fall lineup was confident, with a noticeable uptick in modernity and practicality from last season, in which the label’s leather expertise suffocated the clothes.
The designer Anna Molinari ditched her trademark romanticism for a glamorous wardrobe of furs and sparkly eveningwear inspired by Warhol muse Baby Jane Holzer. Outerwear ran from a maxi cardigan in downy lilac mink to a brown-and-black chevron-patterned leather coat with a swathe of glossy black fox fur running down the font.
Jeremy Scott’s fall target: early Nineties hip-hop and all its stylistic collateral. It’s a joke a minute with this guy, and Scott let the references rip. There was egregious quilted leather and nylon in Lego Man colors — bonus points for the backward red overall shorts that cued […]
Prada went Pop, but softly so, with an explosion of color and texture.
“I had no time to go to the flea market,” Karl Lagerfeld declared backstage at Fendi, again expressing his anti-retro stance. What interests him and Sylvia Venturini Fendi now: pure geometry, experimental volumes and a little fun. The notion of voluptuous geometry was flagged by the invitation and […]
It was one of the show’s several hokey approximations of Monroe’s seaside cuddle session and silly Fifties/Sixties affectations that could be overlooked since the sweaters and amplified outerwear classics were so deftly done.
The collection had romance, femininity, a little mystery and imagination, all the things that make up good lore, yet the interpretation was not wholly modern and was perhaps a touch too literal: There was a red hood, trimmed in crimson fur on a puckered princess-cut coat with a […]