Jacquemus Spring Summer 2020

Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrated the 10th anniversary of his label with an epic show, presenting a refined collection, spanning sensuality and elegance, staged in the middle of a lavender field in Southern France, titled “Le Coup de Soleil”.

Models showcased the label’s new collection on a bright pink carpet runway laid out among the rows of lavender. The collection came in white and sunny, uplifting colors, perfectly at home in this spectacular setting. There was also a multitude of floral motifs, harmoniously echoing the show’s location.

There was, however, a certain contrast between the elegance of the pieces designed for this anniversary show — such as floaty, lightweight dresses in long and mini styles, blazers, pleated skirts and suits — and the earthy rusticity of the landscape in which they were presented. That no doubt contributed to the charm of this sun-soaked show.

Oversize designs ruled in this new collection, putting a laid-back, even nonchalant slant on the most refined of silhouettes. There were also plenty of accessories on show, like large hats, belt bags, baskets, sandals and the iconic Chiquito mini bag — a Jacquemus signature.

Giambattista Valli Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture

Giambattista Valli presented Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture collection at the Beaubourg Centre (Centre Pompidou) on a podium adorned with sequins.

A modern collection with a young and short silhouette reflects a trendy couture. Valli highlights the atelier’s expertise but at the same time, he revisits the codes of couture. He uses many fabrics and adds frills and drapes on ball gowns. The color palette is dominated by black and illuminated with embroideries and sequins. Cocktail dresses are composed of flowery embroideries and Flemish face prints with drapes in silk faille or adorned with ostrich feathers.For the finale, evening dresses in silk tulle are pleated or are adorned with multiple frills enhanced through their volume and sparkling colors. Check out the entire lineup below.

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture

With the Dior Spring Summer 2019 Haute Couture show, Maria Grazia Chiuri offered one jaw-dropper after the next. As if the circus tent setting and the gravity-defying performances by Mimbre acrobats weren’t already enough, she took the circus theme and combined it with the best of the House’s savoir-faire, sending out short dresses and playsuits that burst to colorful life, tailoring trimmed with embroidered frogging, and vaporous evening gowns of the kind of which dreams are made.

The collection consists of a superposition of images: a woman’s tattooed skin, reminiscent of the Victorian circus and its fairground phenomena, becomes a motif-drenched unitard that shapes the body and tells a wearable story under dresses. Powdery shades that come together and blend into an infinite palette – like those on the curtain painted by Pablo Picasso for the ballet Parade – also symbolize this sense of the worn, of the fine dust that sprinkles stage clothes. Skirts embroidered or inlaid with opaque sequins are shortened as tutus that nod to the circus codes of acrobats, tamers and riders.

Maria Grazia Chiuri employs this broad variety of images to compose her own “parade”, comprising full and very light pants, narrowing at the ankle, which can also become sumptuous jumpsuits. Shorts are paired with sheer white shirts accented with ruffs or ribbons seemingly frayed with the passage of time. There are also leather corsets, sailor stripes, and black jackets inspired by that of the lion tamer. The geometric white clown outfit, whether spare or sumptuous, is reinterpreted through its materials, embroidery and proportions.

The show is animated with performances by the all-female circus company Mimbre, which, in a constant search for the poetic in the unexpected, highlights the trust and bond between the acrobats’ bodies.

The circus is presented as a place of inclusion in which the clown, through its androgynous and asexual dimension, becomes the expression of a possible equality and an evocation of modernity, one where beauty, origin, gender and age are no longer important, and only technique and daring matter. Check out #DiorDreamParade below.

Fendi Spring Summer 2019

Fendi’s Spring Summer 2019 collection delights in the symmetries of the natural world entwined in an urban jungle, where the pragmatic and the exotic combine. Utilitarian romance abounds in a mineral palette of sage, cognac, burgundy, tangerine, optic white, denim, and sand. The intricacies are revealed through-looking glass transparency. Tessellated patterns swirl in circles of flora and fauna across iridescent silk dresses. Check out the full lineup below.

3.1 Phillip Lim SPRING 2019

Phillip Lim‘s Spring Summer 2019 collection is inspired by the Berber people with a touch of the sixties to give a retro-futuristic vibe.

The collection features fringed dresses and tops, made from Berber fabrics give way to metallic mesh with curved crop tops which are detached from the rest of the outfit. The cuts gives us a glimpse of the body. ‘Cherry’ prints and orange flowers are worn by some models giving a certain exotic air.  The silver coat, futuristic sun-glasses, flat sandals are perfect for escaping.

“In these times you know, you have to stay positive and you have to like look for the humanity and the love in everything, and this collection was the continuation of a nomadic theme, and it was bits of Berber textiles mixed with like a very naive pops retro future 60s. And I think people were asking me like ‘oh how did those come together?’ I’m like you know, in our journey we’re always looking for things that reference back to naivety and moments of joy and I think those genres, one’s really based in humanity and like soul of the earth and the other one’s like pop and naive and you know just fun and joyous. The bras, like those are kind of a reference from the 60s, the 60s like all Courrèges, and like even the colours and stuff like that, maybe like silvers and stuff like that so, they created like these new iconic graphic lines. Textures are from like Berbered textiles, so it’s really for warmth and like nomadic travels you know, and then we kind of recreated them, in homage to and cut them in kind of just really fly away skirts and dresses and trying to make it just have a sense of freedom.”

Delpozo Fall Winter 2018 LFW

Held at the Royal Institute of British Architects, the luxury Spanish label Delpozo made its London debut with a rainbow of azure blue, canary yellow and a whole symphony of pinks: watermelon, pesto-bismol, raspberry and neon.

With Josep Font’s architectural background, it was the location to bring nature and art together in the form of the Fall Winter 2018 collection. See the full lineup below.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall Winter 2018 LFW

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London fashion designer duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi celebrated strong women with their Fall 2018 collection,  inspired by Korea’s female Haenyeo divers, some of whom are in their 80s. “They dive for octopus and squid; they are the main bread-winners,” said Bregazzi, “the men stay at home and look after the kids, and it works perfectly.”

The Sea Women’s neoprene dive suits were reflected in the sporty neoprene coats that opened the show; even plissé silk cocktails had neoprene sleeves. While the footwear and weekend totes were covered of goat hair that looked like seaweed.

“We wanted something organic for these eco feminists. We wanted to celebrate a matriarchal society. Because men are not doing a very good job taking care of the world, are they?” said Thornton.

Staged on a sunny Sunday morning inside Topshop’s show-space in Covent Garden, the duo accelerated two gears half way through with some stupendous dresses in a dense tropical floral print before a truly bravura finale. Some ten multi-fabric ecru evening dresses in layers of tulle, sequins and silk, cut on the bias and finished with dense patches of actual seashells, and hints of octopus and sea creatures.

PFW | Stella McCartney Fall 2015 RTW Runway

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Stella McCartney delivered her signature masculine-feminine mix with an added shot of sophistication. Continue reading “PFW | Stella McCartney Fall 2015 RTW Runway”

PFW | Givenchy Fall 2015 RTW Runway

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Riccardo Tisci sent out an incredible collection of gothic yet romantic pieces. There were dresses with subtle crosses sewn on the chest, stunning corseted coats, tailcoats, and lush velvet dresses. The latter category’s winning look was a sapphire blue dress with an openwork bodice. Continue reading “PFW | Givenchy Fall 2015 RTW Runway”