CHANEL Exhibition In Tokyo

“Mademoiselle Privé”, these two words appear on the door that led into Mademoiselle Chanel’s Creation studio on the third floor at 31 rue Cambon in Paris. Today it is the title of an exhibition that invites us to open the door onto CHANEL’s creation offering an immersion into the three original creative worlds of the House, Haute Couture, CHANEL N°5 and CHANEL High Jewelry.

Passing through one chromatic ambiance to another, the exhibition brings together all the integral parts of CHANEL’s aesthetic vocabulary: white for the staircase, beige for the sofa, black for the dining room, red for the writing desk and gold for the fireplace.

Mademoiselle’s apartment is a place of inspiration into the creative worlds of CHANEL. Its atmosphere can be seen as an integral part of the House’s aesthetic vocabulary magnified by Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard.

The exhibition opens its doors at the B&C Hall-Tennoz in Tokyo from October 19th to December 1st.

Givenchy Couture Fall Winter 2018

For the Givenchy Fall-Winter 2018-2019 Haute Couture collection, Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller wished to create a homage to Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy, not only for the timelessness of his creations but as a tribute to the innate elegance of the man himself and the grace with which he lived.

Valentino Couture Spring 2018

 

Pierpaolo Picciolo presented Valentino’s Spring Summer 2018 Couture collection, a typical Haute Couture, imagined for present times, made of bows, of glamour and of refined materials such as taffetas and moire. With stunning headpieces by Philip Treacy.

“In a virtual era characterized by technological acceleration, it gives me pride and makes me feel full of hope keeping alive the Atelier in Rome which I consider a true artists studio”, says Pierpaolo Piccioli. “I know and I admire all the people who work there. I am very touched by their stories. Behind their hands, behind their technical skills I see human stories. The same stories which have the power to change clothes”. 

The collection featured unexpected bright colors from yellow, green to lilac, purple and red. The show started off with a maxi yellow cape with ruffles worn over a crepe de chine chemise and wool pants. Followed by a purple and lilac double face wool cape worn over a mint green top and purple pants.

Collection transfers knowledge and values through time. An ivory and apple green double cashmere sweatshirt with giant anemone patchwork print, lace applications, encrustations and embroidery gives the emotions of the human touch, of stories, of people. Creative Director Pierpaolo Picciolo revisited an iconic red gown by Valentino Garavani with his interpretation of present day Haute Couture. The gown ‘Floriana’ has 275 hand made petals layered in organza.

The final look of the show embodies the work of the Atelier as an art of time, a continuous dialogue between the one who imagines and the one who completes. ‘Giada’ an emerald faille and organza oversize cape worn over a black silk slip with floral applications. Please view the full Couture lineup below.

 

Zuhair Murad Couture Spring 2018

For the Zuhair Murad Couture Spring Summer 2018 collection, the Lebanese designer took his inspirations from the glorious civilization of Native America. The collection was filled with geometric motifs.

“I have a lot of respect for native cultures. Without them, we are not here. They left us an unlimited heritage of art and beauty,” said Zuhair Murad before his spring show. He kicked off with a fringed romper beaded in sparkling motifs that were cited as Sioux motifs. Dresses came with fringes, belts, cape sleeves, cascades of crystals and were strewn with suns and arrow heads, feathers and geometric cutouts.

The audience also witnessed princess gowns in red jacquard printed with shimmering silk thread in forms of arrowheads and symbolic drawings. See the full lineup below.

Elie Saab Couture Spring 2018

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The Lebanese designer Elie Saab presented his Spring Summer 2018 Couture collection, that was a major throwback to Paris in ’20s, with plenty of beading, feathers and oversized silk bows.

“I was inspired by the energy and atmosphere of this iconic time, when women lived large and dressed beautifully,” he told Vogue. “I wanted to revisit the era to pay tribute to Paris and its joie de vivre.”

The color palette ranged from pale gold to dusty pink and sky blue. The standout was the dazzling gown that had a geometric Art Deco motif of silver sequins, crystals, and microscopic beads laid over nude tulle.

See the full lineup below.

Alexandre Vauthier Couture Spring 2018

Chanel Couture Spring 2018

Chanel’s Spring Summer 2018 haute couture was presented at the Grand Palais, Paris, where Karl Lagerfeld installed a French garden. He chose the garden setting for Chanel’s spring couture show because he was feeling for that French je ne sais quoi.

There were tweed suits, feathered frocks, crystal embellishments, bouquet-topped veils. The flower power continued through the palette dominated by mostly gentle pinks with occasional outbursts of vibrant color.

« HAUTE COUTURE IS THE EXTREME LUXURY. IT IS PERFECTION WITH A UNIQUE PERSONALITY. IT HAS TO DO WITH PATIENCE AND WITH MODERN AND CURRENT TIMES.» KARL LAGERFELD

Christian Dior Spring 2018 Couture

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“Only the inevitable theatricality of my life interests me.” — Leonor Fini

The history of haute couture is intimately linked with the history of modern art. The couturier is an artist unto himself and the word “atelier” designates equally the studio of an artist or that of a designer. But any artist’s true “studio” is his or her spirit. It’s in this dimension, located somewhere between dream and reality, or imagination and realization, that Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Artistic Director of the House’s women’s collections, pursues her research and explorations. Because haute couture is a dream of fashion. It’s a place where there are no limits to pushing boundaries and experimenting with technique, material and form. Immersing herself in the heart of the Surrealist movement made it possible to bring a fresh breath of imagination to the spring-summer 2018 haute couture collection, conjuring an otherworldliness and constant optical illusion. 

Held in the garden of the Musée Rodin, the décor of Dior’s haute couture spring-summer 2018 reflected the Surrealist inspirations of the collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Surrealism guided Maria Grazia Chiuri in creating a collection predominantly in black and white sprinkled with illusion and surprise.

Generous pleats on a white evening dress are etched in black like the pages of a book, while caging, a recurring motif in Surrealist works, is transformed into a black mesh fabric that hugs the body and underscores transparency as silvery fishnet mingles with the density of velvet.

The daywear for which Christian Dior had such a knack, and notably to shapes reinterpreted using traditional men’s wear fabrics. Maria Grazia Chiuri draws on these as inspiration in a series of suits that recalibrates Dior’s curves to today’s tastes, paired with skirts of multiple contrasts.

Ever faithful to the Surrealist tradition of deconstructed forms, accessories make their presence felt in a whimsical way: a fishnet stocking veils a sandal, while gloves clutch an ankle. It’s this way of seeing and being seen, with a point of view that draws on the unconscious and today’s world, that Maria Grazia Chiuri uses as a foil for embroideries and other embellishments. On a dress illuminated by a mirage of peacock feathers, precious and delicate ornaments become eyes that behold and express mystery — as well as the spiritual power of today’s women.

 

Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2018

Giambattista Valli presented his Spring couture show in the Musée des Beaux-Arts in the Petit Palais. Working around a theme that might be dubbed goddesses fallen in a wild garden, the collection started off with a transparent sequence of black-and-white outfits. The cocktail minidresses were paired with black vinyl over-the-knee boots. The evening gowns similarly played with contrasts: pastoral asymmetric bustier dresses paired with ballet slippers versus floor-sweeping gowns in acres of silk chiffon.

“This is, I think, the modernity in haute couture: It’s getting really the best of the atelier and to modernize them — not to have the heaviness, but to keep the lightness, almost like you did it the night before,” Valli explained backstage after the show.

“I don’t work for museums, I don’t work for archives — I really work to dress real women,” he added.

Continue reading “Giambattista Valli Couture Spring 2018”

Elie Saab Couture Spring 2017 Lookbook