DIOR SPRING-SUMMER 2021 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION

Dior Spring Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection pays subtle homage to Monsieur Dior, who also believed in the signs of destiny. “Being superstitious, I rushed to touch the slightest piece of wood,” he confided in his autobiography. A mesmerizing passion, filled with a sense of magic and dreams.

Fascinated by Italo Calvino’s novel The Castle of Crossed Destinies, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to design her collection using the wonderful Visconti-Sforza tarot cards for exceptional creations symbolizing the major arcana. A tale celebrating the magical beauty of the divinatory arts.

Tarot cards are among the keys to accessing the magical realm, to explore the unknown while fearlessly looking deep inside oneself. Maria Grazia Chiuri immediately felt a connection with these imaginary worlds and this visual language whose symbolic lexicon is rich in complex and fascinating characters. In uncertain times marked by a palpable desire to reconnect with the world’s soul, Maria Grazia Chiuri wished to explore, through the spring-summer 2021 haute couture collection, the mysterious and pluralistic beauty of the tarot in a series of dresses featuring virtuoso constructions; manifest proof that couture remains the ultimate territory of experimentation and possibility.

A series of extraordinary evening gowns features abstract constructions, some with veritable bas-relief openwork bodices punctuated with illustrations by Pietro Ruffo. In this spirit, the Roman artist created a singular deck of cards in which characters disclose the graphic energy of the symbols.

Dior gray appears in tweed, cashmere and organza on shirts, skirts, pants and capes. Meanwhile, the Bar jacket is revisited in black velvet, its curves reinterpreted to express a new attitude.

In his staging of these haute couture creations, Matteo Garrone, one of Italy’s most high-profile directors, builds on the narrative iconography by drawing on the visual force of the Visconti-Sforza tarot. Decorated by the illuminator Bonifacio Bembo for the Duke of Milan in the 15th century, this tarot deck illustrates the marvelous tale of this collection. Splendid cards embellished in gold, enamel, and vegetal and geometric interlacing have a solemn and enigmatic presence, revealing an inner journey, like an adventure of self-discovery. A voyage to the heart of a castle populated by characters embodying the major arcana who question and disorient, inviting the viewer to look at the world from a new perspective. In the director’s interpretation, this quest surpasses gender boundaries, presenting a synthesis of masculine and feminine in a new heraldic mythology evoking the enchanted worlds Matteo Garrone loves.

A clairvoyant asks to draw a card in a deck designed as a catalogue of possibilities, a cryptic dictionary of the world. The High Priestess, the Empress, Justice and the Fool, are notably sublimated through excellence of savoir-faire celebrating the art of weaving: lace is inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet is enlivened with the signs of the zodiac and precious jacquards are sprinkled with stars, while a cape in multicolored feathers showcases 3D volumes.

In this story, the insider always needs the feminine complement and vice versa, because only such a fusion makes it possible to approach a formative path leading to self-awareness. As Italo Calvino points out in The Castle of Crossed Destinies: “The world has to be read upside-down”.

Source: DIOR.COM

Max Mara To Show Resort 2021 In Saint Petersburg

Max Mara is heading to Russia to unveil its Resort 2021 collection. The show will take place on May 25 in Saint Petersburg. The event’s location is still undisclosed.

Previously, starting with the 2015 pre-fall season, the Italian women’s fashion group has staged runway shows in New York, London, Shanghai, Reggio Emilia, Italy, and Berlin.

Max Mara’s runway show in Saint Petersburg will be part of the seasonal resort marathon, which will also see the fashion crowd flocking to Capri to attend the Chanel cruise show on May 7.

While the majority of luxury fashion houses have yet to announce the dates of their resort shows next spring, the pre-fall schedule already counts a Dior men’s showin Miami on Dec. 3 and a Giorgio Armani women’s show on Nov. 14 at the Armani Theater in Milan. During the event, the designer  who will receive the 2019 John B. Fairchild Honor award at the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit to be held Oct. 29 and 30 in New York — will also unveil the first high jewelry collection under the Giorgio Armani luxury label.

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Chanel Spring Summer 2020

The romantic rooftops of Paris served as a fitting look-out point for Virginie Viard to unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel.

Created in the Grand Palais with chimneys sourced from flea markets, the set was one in which a modern-day Mary Poppins would have looked perfectly at home. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs” noted Viard, in her collection notes.

The collection was appropriately cinematic, with fluid silhouettes, jackets with flounce and masculine tailoring among the most photogenic looks.

Swinging black kilts worn with opaque tights, neat bouclé jackets, long-line coats and Chanel’s take on the pillbox hat created a new-look Chanel oozing with Gallic glamour. Stand-out pieces included an ivory puffball skirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Gigi Hadid was also on the catwalk in black micro shorts and embroidered jacket. Chanel has a new-found modernity and subtle femininity in Viard’s hands. But it has continuity too.

Her rise from long-standing Chanel employee and the right hand of Karl Lagerfeld up until his death from cancer earlier this year represents no sea change for the brand. As a result, Viard’s collections have a quiet confidence that can only stem from experience. Her success will depend on whether she can breathe her own spirit into this house.

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Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2020

With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the label, YSL showcased its Spring/Summer 2020 collection last night in front of a gorgeous Parisian backdrop.

This year the Parisian label erected a runway complete with light beams opposite the Eiffel Tower at night, turning the show into one of the biggest events during the week.

As for the collection Anthony Vaccarello took inspiration from what Yves Saint Laurent created throughout the 20th century and channeled it into a modern and contemporary design. Taking on the classic Le Smoking suits, Vaccarello brought back tailoring, shape and cut-offs in the SS20 collection.

Applying his signature rock-inspired aesthetic, the range saw an experiment of materials which ranged from pleated lamé skirts to chiffon blouses, as well as chic necklines, sexy silhouettes and Western-like boots. Tailored jackets and short shorts dominated the range, as well as gorgeous materials and opulent embroidery, emphasizing Saint Laurent’s luxury yet wearable aesthetic. Of course, we also saw party-ready dresses and sequin-clad pieces in true Vaccarello fashion.

All in all, the Spring/Summer 2020 range was a softer take on the signature rocker-chic aesthetic that Anthony Vaccarello has applied to Saint Laurent, with softer silhouettes and materials taking the spotlight. Consisting of a total of 87 looks, the collection was closed off by none other than Naomi Campbell, who wore a sequin two-piece suit that glittered in the spotlights.

Versace Spring Summer 2020

Versace - Runway - Milan Fashion Week S/S 2020, Italy - 20 Sep 2019
Mandatory Credit: Photo by DANIEL DAL ZENNARO/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock (10419762d) US actress Jennifer Lopez presents a creation by Versace during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 20 September 2019. Spring-Summer 2020 women’s collections are presented at the Milano Moda Donna from 17 to 23 September. Versace – Runway – Milan Fashion Week S/S 2020, Italy – 20 Sep 2019

It’s been 20 years since Jennifer Lopez and THAT jungle print dress melted the internet. And on Friday in Milan the superstar sent Instagram into overdrive by dusting off the iconic number to close the Versace catwalk. It was – as they say in fashion land – a moment.

The revival of the Jungle Dress didn’t end with the one worn by JLo. On the catwalk, the lush motif was splashed across cotton parkas, trouser suits and denim mini skirts, while a corresponding crystal embellishment adorned work shirts and handbags. A series of shimmering sequin cocktail dresses inspired by the print also looked set to appeal to Versace’s party-loving peacocks who may or may not be old enough to remember the dress’s first outing.

Aside from the limelight-loving palm print, the LBD was also a signature of Versace’s spring/summer 20 offering and provided the show with some of its strongest looks. Among them, Kendall Jenner’s micro-mini, Bella Hadid’s belted pinafore and Gigi’s torso-flashing jersey dress. Black leather was also a mainstay. See Edie Campbell’s biker jacket for more details.

Perhaps even more shocking addition to the catwalk than last night’s surprise guest – albeit, one less photographed – was a flat shoe. From perspex slides to gladiator sandals and bejewelled trainers, Versace said that the more casual inclusions (which also included denim) were designed to appeal to widen the brand’s appeal.

“It’s not for one woman, it’s for every woman,” said the designer, whilst, of course, clad in her signature six inch heels. There was no shortage of vertiginous versions to keep Donatella-ites happy too, including strappy spike stilettos and razor-sharp courts.

 

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Moschino Spring Summer 2020

Jeremy Scott presented Moschino’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan. “Muses inspire artists, and artists inspire the world,” said Scott. Riffing on the idea that the model is a canvas and clothing can be wearable art, there was a decidedly Pablo Picasso lean to the offering. Several cocktail dresses were shaped like guitars and mandolins, including one worn by Kaia Gerber, which called to mind the artist’s Cubist renderings. Others including Bella Hadid – dressed in a sequin ruffle clown-suit invoking Picasso’s Harlequin – also carried miniature string instruments down the catwalk.

There was a Spanish essence throughout too, from Matador-inspired bolero dresses to polka-dot flamenco gowns. Proportion was also paramount, with supersize structured shoulders and poufy puffball skirts abundant.

But while Scott knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – and in generation Instagram, countless more Likes – this show wasn’t just about showstoppers designed to get iPhone cameras clicking.

Ever the astute businessman – Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, which also owns Alberta Ferretti, reported a rise in net profits of 46 per cent last year with Moschino contributing 72 per cent of the group’s total revenues – Scott was also careful to consider what would translate into retail. As a result, trouser suits decorated with hand-painted prints and a little black dress accessorised with a miniature picture frame brooch were among the collection’s – albeit more subtle – stand out pieces.

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Burberry Spring Summer 2020 | EVOLUTION

Burberry Spring/Summer 2020 collection was unveiled in London on September 16. Titled ‘Evolution,’ the collection is a confirmation of Riccardo Tisci’s exploration of Burberry House codes, spun through his modern lens. Set to a soundtrack curated by William Djoko. Make-up artist Pat McGrath created the beauty looks for Evolution. Check out the entire lineup below.

Victoria Beckham Spring Summer 2020

VB_SS20_FINALE_SHOW_PAGE_BANNER_0671201e-e4a2-45a6-a1b1-7da6c3e2ac42_1700xLightness, easiness, freedom. Those are the ideas Victoria Beckham was thinking of for this collection. It’s about dynamic women today, women in motion.

“We took a melting pot of references and inspiration from past decades, then looked to our brand DNA and put everything together into a blender, to make a new, modern mix.

I always love contrasts. The colour is strong – brights punctuating a new palette of neutrals, and injecting ‘off’ mixes that are interesting and fresh. And there’s a play between precise masculine tailoring, and floating soft dresses that let the body breathe inside them.

These dresses are a big story – they feel alive, suspended around the body, ruffles dancing as you walk. They’re super-feminine, a little romantic. They’re in block colours but also print – which has a punch. The prints are bold, almost luminous, against dark backgrounds. They’re not like anything we’ve done before. It adds up to a new kind of sexy – no restriction, not much skin on show but a sense of the body and of the woman inside. For me it’s about that woman really feeling confident and sensual in her clothes.

Controlled and free, living life, reality and believability. There is always a duality in women, moving between different ideas, different moods. I want clothes that move with a woman, that move with her life.”

Michael Kors Spring Summer 2020

Held at a warehouse in the historic Brooklyn Navy Yard, Michael Kors presented his Spring 2020 collection. Inspired by a recent visit to Ellis Island with his husband, where he learned about his immigrant great-grandparent’s American beginnings, Kors sought to create a line surrounded by “newness, revival and optimism.”

Kors embodied those patriotic messages in the form of clothes, with a nationalistic palette of red, white and blue gingham, knitwear and dresses. All of the looks culminated in perhaps the simplest, yet most head-turning of them all: A navy and white sweater with the word “HATE” slashed down the middle.

“As the world gets worse, it’s the only ammunition we have,” Kors said to Vogue about his fuel behind the collection, while later tweeting: “I am a native New Yorker and I wanted this show to highlight the strength and optimism and can-do attitude of our city.”