Victoria Beckham Spring Summer 2020

VB_SS20_FINALE_SHOW_PAGE_BANNER_0671201e-e4a2-45a6-a1b1-7da6c3e2ac42_1700xLightness, easiness, freedom. Those are the ideas Victoria Beckham was thinking of for this collection. It’s about dynamic women today, women in motion.

“We took a melting pot of references and inspiration from past decades, then looked to our brand DNA and put everything together into a blender, to make a new, modern mix.

I always love contrasts. The colour is strong – brights punctuating a new palette of neutrals, and injecting ‘off’ mixes that are interesting and fresh. And there’s a play between precise masculine tailoring, and floating soft dresses that let the body breathe inside them.

These dresses are a big story – they feel alive, suspended around the body, ruffles dancing as you walk. They’re super-feminine, a little romantic. They’re in block colours but also print – which has a punch. The prints are bold, almost luminous, against dark backgrounds. They’re not like anything we’ve done before. It adds up to a new kind of sexy – no restriction, not much skin on show but a sense of the body and of the woman inside. For me it’s about that woman really feeling confident and sensual in her clothes.

Controlled and free, living life, reality and believability. There is always a duality in women, moving between different ideas, different moods. I want clothes that move with a woman, that move with her life.”

A.W.A.K.E. Spring Summer 2020

Armenian designer Natalia Alaverdian presented A.W.A.K.E. Spring Summer 2020 collection during London fashion week. As the notes observed:“The singular intention of this label continues to be removal of barriers between daywear and evening. To introduce elegant wit and subtle strangeness into the wardrobes of Alaverdian’s dedicated following.” Check out the entire lineup below.

DELPOZO Spring Summer 2019

For Spring / Summer 2019, Josep Font, creative director of Delpozo, creates a universe of contrasts between the lush clusters of wisteria trees and the colorful Murano glass artwork of the Italian Fulvio Bianconi.
The chromatic subtlety of wisterias, from white to lilac inspire Font to create the collection’s chromatic palette in which the floral patterns predominate in fabrics such as the floral fil coupé in mauve tones and a delicate tulle with sequins embroidered that bring a touch of freshness to dresses, shirts and cocktail skirts.
The floral notes acquire importance through vibrant colors such as fuchsia or red, in which printed jacquard volumes turn into structured yet light pieces.
A translucid organza with pink neon motifs and overlaid embroidered flowers in flowy dresses complete this play on textures and contrasts of Font in which organic embroidery gives the final touch to the garments.
The color symphony of the Fulvio Bianconi’s objects are captured by Font in trousers, shirts and tunics. The Murano glass is turned into fluid and relaxed designs in striped silk georgette. They reflect the unique beauty and light that radiate the Bianconi vases. Font plays with asymmetries and ruffles in pink-green and blue-coral hues; he also combines natural fabrics like linen for garments with a delicate raw appearance in shades of raspberry, aquamarine or sand and decorated with resin and mirror buttons; and, embellishes knitwear with pointelle and fringes reminiscing the leading trees.
For this season the accessories take the Murano glass as inspiration turning the Roman sandals into an ensemble of embroidery of wavy sequins contrasting with soft transparent vinyl and resin pieces modeling prisms. The new Abanico bag is introduced into the Delpozo family of accessories, in which the mix of leather and raffia creates unexpected volumes. The last touch are the delicate headpieces that fall over the models’ faces just like the branches of the wisteria tree.
The spring-summer 2019 collection is a celebration of nature and wrapped in light for the Delpozo woman.

Christopher Kane Fall 2018 LFW

Christopher Kane’s fall 2018 collection was inspired by “The Joy of Sex.” More accurately, it was based on illustrations from the seminal tome by Christopher Foss and Charles Raymond as opposed to the physical act of copulation. “Every season, there is an element of sexual human behavior to my collections,” he said. “It’s reality.”

Kane gave an androgynous approach to fall ’18 collection complete with strong leathers, colorful pieces made of lace, cage dresses, silky slips and deconstructed fabrics.

The collection’s shoe of note is from a collaboration with orthopedic shoe label . “They’re quite weird,” Kane told FN after the show, “but I like an ugly shoe, as you know.” He was referring, of course, to his three-season partnership with Crocs

 

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FOR HALPERN FALL WINTER 2018

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This season saw Christian Louboutin’s second collaboration with Michael
Halpern’s eponymous brand; the designer’s usual high glamour world taking a
bigger, more daring approach for the season, turning traditional eveningwear on
its head.

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The rock and roll edge of last season was given an even grittier dress
code for AW18. Inspired by seasoned socialite and sartorial rule breaker Nan
Kemper, the collection showcased a burst of colour wrapped around dazzling
super flares, glittering miniskirts paired with embellished t-shirts and a highly
crafted shoulder of a jacket irreverently morphed into a luxurious mini dress.
Drawing from the ever-changing landscape of the world’s most famous
concrete jungle, exploding peonies and animal prints appeared as recurring
themes, elevated to a three-dimensional quality through embellishment and
metallic fabric treatments.
The dazzling interpretation of an inappropriate glamour – wearing an evening
look at noon, dressing against the dress codes, and the irresistible pleasure of
being out of place – was furthered by the addition of customised Christian
Louboutin styles inspired by Miss Daisy from the Spring Summer 2018
collection.
Matching the fabrics of the most exceptional outfits, thigh high boots come in a
vibrant palette of colours and patterns. The playful mules were a highlight with
contrasting colour block fragments and multicoloured firework sequins. Self
assured ankle boots adorned in Halpern’s AW18 zebra flip motif further
embodies the freedom from fashion etiquette. All three styles are showcased in
a psychedelic fil coupé that comes in both pink and yellow.
All sit atop Christian Louboutin’s sculptural SS18 Gueridon heel, reflecting
Michael Halpern’s creative vision of a silhouette freeze-framing the fleeting
moments of ease embodied in the movement of eveningwear.

MM6 Maison Margiela Fall 2018 LFW

MM6 Maison Margela presented their Fall 2018 ready-to-wear futuristic collection, designed by an in-house team. Everything came in a palette of silver and black, complete with sequins, contrasting collars and semi-stripes. The backdrop of the presentation space was completely foiled in silver, as was all of the furniture and the walls. See the lineup below.

Burberry Fall Winter 2018 LFW

Creative director Christopher Bailey is leaving Burberry later this year. Bailey’s final show was a milestone for him and for the company he helped revive. He dedicated his farewell show to organizations that support the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender communities.

“There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength and our creativity,” Bailey said.

The spectacle was part fashion show, part performance art and part laser lighting display. It ended with Bailey walking down the fog-filled runway to a prolonged standing ovation from a crowd that included Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Chelsea Clinton and many others famous fans.

Model and actress Cara Delevingne made a now-rare catwalk appearance for Bailey and the Burberry brand. She closed the show wearing a regal, rainbow-themed outfit and leading the other models through the finale, which was set off by a spectacular laser show.

The show featured many references to the familiar Burberry check, which was worked into a number of jackets, caps and tops, along with some gorgeous gowns and stylish bomber jackets.

Simone Rocha Fall Winter 2018 LFW

Dainty lace, ruffles, pretty bows: Simone Rocha’s latest collection may include every girly cliche, but there’s more than meets the eye.

The young designer, known for her modern take on sweet, doll-like looks, dressed models in frilly gold or black tulle and lace dresses over slim tailored pieces such as a buttoned-up shirt or a trouser suit. The outfits were finished off with mannish brogue shoes or furry flat slippers.

There were exaggerated puff sleeves, embroidered roses, fur trims and rich floral brocade fabrics, perhaps a nod to the John Constable portraits Rocha referred to in her show notes. They were certainly a match with the show’s venue, an ornate red and gold room adorned with giant candlelit chandeliers in London’s palatial Goldsmiths’ Hall.

Rocha did break away from delicate dresses, and those were some of the show’s strongest looks: Belted, double-breasted patent leather coats that came in a striking red or military green, as well as red and navy plaid outfits adorned with a tinsel-like trim.

Marques’ Almeida Fall 2017

The London-based design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida described their Marques’ Almeida Fall 2017 collection as a celebration of diversity, inspired by the exuberant 1950s, ’60s and ’70s portraits of the late Malian photographer Malick Sidibé. “Malick’s work was all about youth,” said Marques after the show. “He celebrated the freedom of dressing up in your best clothes, your finest earrings — the whole feeling stemmed from there.”

There were bold prints — black and white dots, stripes and graphic patterns everywhere, along with exaggerated proportions and lots of colors. See the full lineup below.

 

Burberry February 2017

For Burberry’s Fall/Winter 2017 see-now-buy-now collection, which is simply titled ‘February 2017’, Christopher Bailey drew his inspirations from an English artist Henry Moore, who is best known for his semi-abstract monumental bronze sculptures which are located around the world as public works of art. Burberry artisans used traditional techniques to work with rope, lace and wool in a manner that evoked Moore’s use of threaded strings in his artwork.There were plenty white-on-white silhouettes, ivory lace dresses worn with knits or over ruffled white shirts with frills and striped tops. Rope detailing adorned sweatshirt-like jumpers, denim pants, coats and shirts.

“Moore’s work is about changing the form, putting it in different directions,” said Bailey, “His shoulders were suddenly up here, the breasts were suddenly down here, and I liked that idea of putting something on, turning it in a completely different way, deconstructing it, changing the shape of the body by moving the lines and the pieces in a more unconventional way.”

“We’re just testing new ways of doing things, the world is changing dramatically and it’s important that we as an industry explore new ways of showing things to our customers and people that love fashion and design and creativity,” Bailey said.

“It’s been going incredibly well.”