Gucci Spring Summer 2020 collection was presented at the Gucci Hub during Milan Fashion Week. Clean lines and intense lighting, the show space was imagined by the creative director Alessandro Michele.
The lineup signifies the arrival of a new Gucci aesthetic, with models forgoing quirky, geeky styling for sultrier silhouettes with kinky details. In contrast to the opening looks, the collection presents “fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity.”
Filled with hard-to-miss nods to Tom Ford-era Gucci, the catwalk saw a number of sheer lace dresses with thigh-high slits paired with monogrammed panties underneath. The “G” metal emblem, resembling that of the house’s ’90s G-string designs, was placed around the neck, across the chest or on the thigh like garters. Models wore bralettes and tops with plunging necklines, and were accessorized with BDSM-esque chokers, leather gloves, retro sunglasses attached with oversized chains and studded handbags. Many even carried whips and floggers in their hands as they walked down the runway.
Scroll through the gallery to see the entire Gucci SS20 show.
Jeremy Scott presented Moschino’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan. “Muses inspire artists, and artists inspire the world,” said Scott. Riffing on the idea that the model is a canvas and clothing can be wearable art, there was a decidedly Pablo Picasso lean to the offering. Several cocktail dresses were shaped like guitars and mandolins, including one worn by Kaia Gerber, which called to mind the artist’s Cubist renderings. Others including Bella Hadid – dressed in a sequin ruffle clown-suit invoking Picasso’s Harlequin – also carried miniature string instruments down the catwalk.
There was a Spanish essence throughout too, from Matador-inspired bolero dresses to polka-dot flamenco gowns. Proportion was also paramount, with supersize structured shoulders and poufy puffball skirts abundant.
But while Scott knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – and in generation Instagram, countless more Likes – this show wasn’t just about showstoppers designed to get iPhone cameras clicking.
Ever the astute businessman – Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, which also owns Alberta Ferretti, reported a rise in net profits of 46 per cent last year with Moschino contributing 72 per cent of the group’s total revenues – Scott was also careful to consider what would translate into retail. As a result, trouser suits decorated with hand-painted prints and a little black dress accessorised with a miniature picture frame brooch were among the collection’s – albeit more subtle – stand out pieces.
Continue reading “Moschino Spring Summer 2020”
Yesterday in Milan, British designer Daniel Lee unveiled his sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta in a showcase which served to cement a new modern era for the Italian label.
Long renowned as a bastion of stealth wealth thanks to its half-century heritage as a luxury leather specialist, the 32-year-old has been successful in injecting a youthful, agenda-setting sense of relevance to the house since his arrival in July last year.
His debut collection, which was unveiled in February, was chock full of distinctive new-gen hits including square toe padded mules and leather pouch bags which have proven a regular sighting on front rows this month.
There was an evolution of this for next season, with his reworking of the signature intrecciato weave into a squishy shoe strap now among his calling cards. A pair of glitterball pumps joined them, along with huge sack-like holdalls worn across the body and chain strap shoulder bags both bearing the house weave in lieu of any logos.
Denim, pineapple print silk scarves worn as halterneck tops and cargo-pocket short suits were also among the new staples, as well as chainmail slips and asymmetric ribbed knit dresses. But leather was the star of the show, appearing in unexpected ways such as a sky blue statement greatcoat or a short tailored jumpsuit to shake up your workwear.
Check the lineup below.
Continue reading “Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2020”
Miuccia Prada kicked off Milan fashion week with Prada’s Spring Summer 2020 runway show, with a new take on elegance and understatement. For the show, AMO devised a vibrant geometric pattern of ceramic tile and interlocking seating that enfolds across the hall of the Fondazione Prada Deposito – illuminated and infused with a golden glow.
See every look from the collection in the gallery below.
Fendi’s Spring Summer 2019 collection delights in the symmetries of the natural world entwined in an urban jungle, where the pragmatic and the exotic combine. Utilitarian romance abounds in a mineral palette of sage, cognac, burgundy, tangerine, optic white, denim, and sand. The intricacies are revealed through-looking glass transparency. Tessellated patterns swirl in circles of flora and fauna across iridescent silk dresses. Check out the full lineup below.
Drones opened Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall Winter 2018 show carrying handbags down the runway. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have always come up with the most iconic and extravaganza presentations. For this season, the duo made a declaration of love to the industry with a collection entitled Fashion Devotion.
“Fashion is not work, fashion is devotion,” Dolce said. “You live, sleep and eat with fashion, you never stop thinking about it and you love it with all your heart.”
Before the show guests were instructed to turn off the Wi-Fi on their phones, including any personal hotspots. The announcements were made in both English and Italian that the show could not start if show-goers did not turn off their WiFi.
When the show started, a series of Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2018 handbags hanging on drones floated past, eliciting gasps from the audience.
As for the clothes it was everything from crafted Vatican City vestment brocades and cut velvet – green, Cardinal red, Venetian pink – and sumptuous embroidery to slogans on sweatshirts and T-shirts. See the full lineup below.
Marni presented the new Fall Winter 2018 collection in Milan, an explosion of colors and a mix of patterns. Marni has combined, in a single collection, the elementary, the futuristic and the ancestral. A parade of colorful items animated by striped graphics, squares and unique patterns.
Basic, raw, immediate. Build pieces around the body, in an elementary way. Fold, cut, tighten. Wrap instead of buttoning. The coat, the jacket and the dress, reduced to a primary profile that moves away from the hips and marks the life to forge the archetype. See the full lineup below.
Giorgio Armani presented his Fall 2018 collection in Milan, from pantaloons to oversized furry berets. The pantaloon puffball shorts and skirts were worn with over-the-knee flat lace-up boots, while jacket and shirt sleeves were balloon shaped. Those huge hats were even reminiscent of those worn by Henry VIII, as were the fitted embroidered jackets. There was plenty of tailoring and eveningwear on show for the brand’s core customer. A recurring item was a pair of loose velvet trousers with a louche peplum, which were paired with sparkly blazers as well as jackets and knitwear with batwing sleeves.
For those not into velvet, further trousers were made from a crumpled fabric, while others were sequinned. Long skirts were styled with a knot at the ankle and worn with flat ankle boots. This was a co-ed show, featuring menswear as well as womenswear, and male models also wore velvet suits. The color palette throughout was grey and soft black with hints of pink, purple and blue. Armani’s second show of Milan Fashion Week – Emporio Armani – shows in the city tomorrow.