Elie Saab Spring Summer 2020 Couture

Lebanese designer Elie Saab took style cues from Mexico for his Spring/Summer 2020 collection.

The designer presented his latest imaginings as part of the French capital’s Haute Couture Week on Wednesday, January 22, showcasing a dreamy affair of fluid fabrics, theatrical capes and scatterings of embellishment.

“The collection features delicately embroidered shapes and forms inspired by an Imperial Mexico,” Saab’s atelier posted on Instagram following the show.

The dazzling collection featured shades of white, cream and blush, with intricate gold detailing, while structured shoulders added a certain strength to otherwise romantic evening gowns. Check out the entire lineup below.

Chanel Spring Summer 2020

The romantic rooftops of Paris served as a fitting look-out point for Virginie Viard to unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel.

Created in the Grand Palais with chimneys sourced from flea markets, the set was one in which a modern-day Mary Poppins would have looked perfectly at home. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs” noted Viard, in her collection notes.

The collection was appropriately cinematic, with fluid silhouettes, jackets with flounce and masculine tailoring among the most photogenic looks.

Swinging black kilts worn with opaque tights, neat bouclé jackets, long-line coats and Chanel’s take on the pillbox hat created a new-look Chanel oozing with Gallic glamour. Stand-out pieces included an ivory puffball skirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Gigi Hadid was also on the catwalk in black micro shorts and embroidered jacket. Chanel has a new-found modernity and subtle femininity in Viard’s hands. But it has continuity too.

Her rise from long-standing Chanel employee and the right hand of Karl Lagerfeld up until his death from cancer earlier this year represents no sea change for the brand. As a result, Viard’s collections have a quiet confidence that can only stem from experience. Her success will depend on whether she can breathe her own spirit into this house.

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Miu Miu Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Miuccia Prada presented Miu Miu’s Fall Winter 2018 collection – full of big coats, fuzzy sweaters, and acid-washed jeans. Actress Elle Fanning, who starred in the brand’s latest ad campaign, made her runway debut by opening and closing the show. She was joined by model pals Kaia Gerber, Georgia May Jagger, Adwoa Aboah and more. The models strode down the runway wearing ’80s-influenced silhouettes.

“What I feel like I’m doing that’s different from the past is thinking fashion is not just my own fantasy, but discussing it and making it available to other people,” Prada said after the show.  See all the runway looks below.

Stella McCartney Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Stella McCartney’s Fall Winter 2018 collection, presented at the Opéra Garnier in Paris, featured an edgy take on suits, with waistcoasts revealing a bare back, layered shorts over trousers cut from the same cloth, and linings worn as sleeves.

“The inside of things sometimes has a more sensual relationship with the wearer,” McCartney said of the looks, adding she had mixed pieces from men and women’s wardrobes.

“The linings have so much character to them, you never seen them and they’re always so incredible,” the designer, who partly trained with a Savile Row tailor, added.

Looks for next winter included knitwear, such as a chunky striped poncho with layers of different yarns, and dresses in stretchy velour etched with prints from 20th century British artist J.H. Lynch, known for his paintings of sultry women.

 Check out all the runway looks below.

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Valentino Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Valentino’s Fall Winter 2018 collection by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli is all about romanticism as strength. Simplicity reveals grace. Flowers define silhouettes. Colors multiply in the symphony of a monochrome that is disrupted by multiple weavings. Hoods become an elegant accessory, sartorial intarsia as blooming flowers: a new way revealing the idea of strong and contemporary romanticism and its magic. One of the standouts is the red look characterized by a very special way of layering a masculine oversize jacket on a tone sur tone short dress and pants. Unexpected tones of different greens give a touch of lightness to coats. Volumes expand and the entire collection leaves its sign. Another breathtaking look is the multiflowers intarsia gown worn by model Kaia Gerber. The final look of the show is characterized by beautiful intarsia pansy flowers, standing for the free thinkers and for the strong power of romanticism. Discover the full collection below.

 

BALENCIAGA Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Demna Gvasalia presented his first coed show for BALENCIAGA’s Fall 2018 collection, set around a big “snowy” mountain tagged in graffiti inspired by Nineties snowboarders.  The show started off with short velvet dresses for women and velvet turtlenecks for men. Followed by velvet suitings, which afterwards turned to plaids. The eye-popping vivid colors along with signature tailoring, oversized bags and jackets made the collection a standout one. But the key looks were Gvasalia’s extreme layerings — hoodies, ski parkas, preppy staples and garish faux furs had been layered underneath, though the garments were one enormous piece. See the full lineup below.

Sonia Rykiel Fall 2018 PFW

Sonia Rykiel celebrated 50th anniversary with the Fall Winter 2018 collection showcased in Paris. Creative director Julie de Libran said “We’re celebrating 50 years this year and ’68 liberated women and gave them a voice. I wanted to show that I’m one of those women. It’s about creativity through the clothes.”

Julie de Libran travels through and conflates ideas and eras of femininity in the anniversary collection, essentially to bring them to the point of today. The lineup opened with four models clad in head-to-toe furry looks each in a different color.

“This collection is not an homage to, but an honoring of the spirit of Sonia Rykiel, a spirit that encouraged women to live their lives creatively, individually, and out loud — and that includes me,” wrote de Libran in the show notes.

“The spirit of post punk, new wave and pop was quite an influence for me growing up… this was when I discovered how to express myself as somebody who is quite shy, this was how I found my voice and spoke,” she continued.

Libran had girl group Bananarama perform at the show finale, they played their hit cover of “He Was Really Sayin’ Somethin’.”

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