Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2020

At the Cour Carrée of the Louvre Museum in Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière staged his Spring Summer 2020 collection for Louis Vuitton, against a stripped back set.

Dominating the space was a digital wall, projecting the artist Sophie’s 2017 music video “It’s Okay To Cry” in a version specially made for the occasion in collaboration with Woodkid.

Nicolas Ghesquière turned to the Belle Époque, the culturally rich period spanning the turn of the 20th century up until World War I – as the starting point for his newest collection for Louis Vuitton. As a time of great excitement and tremendous change, it also saw the founding of Louis Vuitton, the building of the family’s Art Nouveau home in Asnières, as well as the Maison’s first travels around the world. Today, for his Spring-Summer 2020 Collection, the Artistic Director of Women’s Collections circles back to the pleasures of sartorial protocol, a certain kind of dandyism that blends styles and genres.

Harking back to the fundamentals of romanticism and transposing Art Nouveau onto clothing, Ghesquière construes a community that celebrates the enthusiasm of singularity.  In this spirit, the collection adopts the evocative cattleya orchid as a sort of signature, worn on the lapel like the fanciful symbol of ultimate refinement. Louis Vuitton picks up the thread of its own history and brings together two nascent centuries, the dream-like dawn of the 20th century and the 21st century that yearns to remember it.

Chanel Spring Summer 2020

The romantic rooftops of Paris served as a fitting look-out point for Virginie Viard to unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel.

Created in the Grand Palais with chimneys sourced from flea markets, the set was one in which a modern-day Mary Poppins would have looked perfectly at home. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs” noted Viard, in her collection notes.

The collection was appropriately cinematic, with fluid silhouettes, jackets with flounce and masculine tailoring among the most photogenic looks.

Swinging black kilts worn with opaque tights, neat bouclé jackets, long-line coats and Chanel’s take on the pillbox hat created a new-look Chanel oozing with Gallic glamour. Stand-out pieces included an ivory puffball skirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Gigi Hadid was also on the catwalk in black micro shorts and embroidered jacket. Chanel has a new-found modernity and subtle femininity in Viard’s hands. But it has continuity too.

Her rise from long-standing Chanel employee and the right hand of Karl Lagerfeld up until his death from cancer earlier this year represents no sea change for the brand. As a result, Viard’s collections have a quiet confidence that can only stem from experience. Her success will depend on whether she can breathe her own spirit into this house.

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Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2020

With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the label, YSL showcased its Spring/Summer 2020 collection last night in front of a gorgeous Parisian backdrop.

This year the Parisian label erected a runway complete with light beams opposite the Eiffel Tower at night, turning the show into one of the biggest events during the week.

As for the collection Anthony Vaccarello took inspiration from what Yves Saint Laurent created throughout the 20th century and channeled it into a modern and contemporary design. Taking on the classic Le Smoking suits, Vaccarello brought back tailoring, shape and cut-offs in the SS20 collection.

Applying his signature rock-inspired aesthetic, the range saw an experiment of materials which ranged from pleated lamé skirts to chiffon blouses, as well as chic necklines, sexy silhouettes and Western-like boots. Tailored jackets and short shorts dominated the range, as well as gorgeous materials and opulent embroidery, emphasizing Saint Laurent’s luxury yet wearable aesthetic. Of course, we also saw party-ready dresses and sequin-clad pieces in true Vaccarello fashion.

All in all, the Spring/Summer 2020 range was a softer take on the signature rocker-chic aesthetic that Anthony Vaccarello has applied to Saint Laurent, with softer silhouettes and materials taking the spotlight. Consisting of a total of 87 looks, the collection was closed off by none other than Naomi Campbell, who wore a sequin two-piece suit that glittered in the spotlights.

Dior Spring Summer 2020

dior spring summer 2020

Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with Spring Summer 2020 women’s ready-to-wear collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri. It took place at the Longchamp Racecourse and celebrated nature and ecology. Chiuri opted to stage the runway in the middle of a secret woodland garden, with the models walking between the trees.

Dior notes that nature and gardens have long been a source of inspiration for its designs. It began with Christian Dior himself, who designed many an iconic floral dress, and this year’s show also paid homage to his sister Catherine who was an avid gardener.

‘It appeared essential to me that this legacy be addressed with a new perspective,’ Chuiri noted ahead of the SS20 show. ‘Flowers and plants don’t just serve an ornamental purpose, they are our environment. We have a commitment to care for them, today more than ever.’

The show guests included Jennifer Lawrence, Karlie Kloss, Jorja Smith and Erin O’Connor. The models walked down the runway sporting straw cloche hats – familiar territory for Dior, dating back to the 1960s, plus diaphanous, bohemian floral chiffon dresses.

Continuing the eco theme, the show also debuted separates embellished with nature-inspired motifs – like beadwork in the shape of thistles and skirts that resembled camouflage netting.

Dior said their show is also in keeping with its zero-waste policy and sustainability commitment, with the rest of the set being completely recyclable and plastic-free.

Chiuri expressed her wish to create an ‘inclusive garden’ and send a message of co-existence between fashion and nature, so collaborated with a company called Coloco which employs botanists, gardeners, landscape designers and urban planners. The 164 trees that featured in the show all come from different nurseries in France, Germany and Italy and will continue their journey after the show, joining sustainability projects around Paris. Each tree was tagged with a story of its origin and future destination.

Check out the entire lineup below.

 

Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Louis Vuitton chose the spectacular setting of the Louvre Museum for its Fall-Winter 2018 runway show by Nicolas Ghesquière. Closing the Paris Fashion Week with a melange of versatile and youthful looks. The main focus of the collection was on the separates featuring huge array of skirts, slim line pants, statement tops and light dresses. It was well-balanced mixture of past, present and future. Classic silhouettes from centuries ago, like lace-up waist corsets or the flared coats.

The front row was seated by Emma Stone, Michelle Williams, Isabelle Huppert and Sienna Miller. See all the looks from Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2018 below.

Chanel Fall Winter 2018 PFW

For Chanel’s Fall Winter 2018 show, Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into a forest, with moss-covered trees and fallen leaves, housed under a towering archway of clear glass and steel. Within this decor, the black-and-white palette is warmed up by an array of reds, russets, moss and pine green, brown and foliage prints.

The collection’s main focus was on coats and suits. Models paraded through piles of leaves in an astounding total of 80 fall-ready looks that varied from Chanel’s classic tweed to fur coats, black lace gowns and oversized scarves. Standing out against the dark and moody fall backdrop were the colorful lineup of fingerless gloves. See the full collection below.

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Stella McCartney Fall Winter 2018 PFW

Stella McCartney’s Fall Winter 2018 collection, presented at the Opéra Garnier in Paris, featured an edgy take on suits, with waistcoasts revealing a bare back, layered shorts over trousers cut from the same cloth, and linings worn as sleeves.

“The inside of things sometimes has a more sensual relationship with the wearer,” McCartney said of the looks, adding she had mixed pieces from men and women’s wardrobes.

“The linings have so much character to them, you never seen them and they’re always so incredible,” the designer, who partly trained with a Savile Row tailor, added.

Looks for next winter included knitwear, such as a chunky striped poncho with layers of different yarns, and dresses in stretchy velour etched with prints from 20th century British artist J.H. Lynch, known for his paintings of sultry women.

 Check out all the runway looks below.