Elie Saab Spring Summer 2020 Couture

Lebanese designer Elie Saab took style cues from Mexico for his Spring/Summer 2020 collection.

The designer presented his latest imaginings as part of the French capital’s Haute Couture Week on Wednesday, January 22, showcasing a dreamy affair of fluid fabrics, theatrical capes and scatterings of embellishment.

“The collection features delicately embroidered shapes and forms inspired by an Imperial Mexico,” Saab’s atelier posted on Instagram following the show.

The dazzling collection featured shades of white, cream and blush, with intricate gold detailing, while structured shoulders added a certain strength to otherwise romantic evening gowns. Check out the entire lineup below.

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2020

At the Cour Carrée of the Louvre Museum in Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière staged his Spring Summer 2020 collection for Louis Vuitton, against a stripped back set.

Dominating the space was a digital wall, projecting the artist Sophie’s 2017 music video “It’s Okay To Cry” in a version specially made for the occasion in collaboration with Woodkid.

Nicolas Ghesquière turned to the Belle Époque, the culturally rich period spanning the turn of the 20th century up until World War I – as the starting point for his newest collection for Louis Vuitton. As a time of great excitement and tremendous change, it also saw the founding of Louis Vuitton, the building of the family’s Art Nouveau home in Asnières, as well as the Maison’s first travels around the world. Today, for his Spring-Summer 2020 Collection, the Artistic Director of Women’s Collections circles back to the pleasures of sartorial protocol, a certain kind of dandyism that blends styles and genres.

Harking back to the fundamentals of romanticism and transposing Art Nouveau onto clothing, Ghesquière construes a community that celebrates the enthusiasm of singularity.  In this spirit, the collection adopts the evocative cattleya orchid as a sort of signature, worn on the lapel like the fanciful symbol of ultimate refinement. Louis Vuitton picks up the thread of its own history and brings together two nascent centuries, the dream-like dawn of the 20th century and the 21st century that yearns to remember it.

Chanel Spring Summer 2020

The romantic rooftops of Paris served as a fitting look-out point for Virginie Viard to unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel.

Created in the Grand Palais with chimneys sourced from flea markets, the set was one in which a modern-day Mary Poppins would have looked perfectly at home. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs” noted Viard, in her collection notes.

The collection was appropriately cinematic, with fluid silhouettes, jackets with flounce and masculine tailoring among the most photogenic looks.

Swinging black kilts worn with opaque tights, neat bouclé jackets, long-line coats and Chanel’s take on the pillbox hat created a new-look Chanel oozing with Gallic glamour. Stand-out pieces included an ivory puffball skirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Gigi Hadid was also on the catwalk in black micro shorts and embroidered jacket. Chanel has a new-found modernity and subtle femininity in Viard’s hands. But it has continuity too.

Her rise from long-standing Chanel employee and the right hand of Karl Lagerfeld up until his death from cancer earlier this year represents no sea change for the brand. As a result, Viard’s collections have a quiet confidence that can only stem from experience. Her success will depend on whether she can breathe her own spirit into this house.

Continue reading “Chanel Spring Summer 2020”

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2020

With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the label, YSL showcased its Spring/Summer 2020 collection last night in front of a gorgeous Parisian backdrop.

This year the Parisian label erected a runway complete with light beams opposite the Eiffel Tower at night, turning the show into one of the biggest events during the week.

As for the collection Anthony Vaccarello took inspiration from what Yves Saint Laurent created throughout the 20th century and channeled it into a modern and contemporary design. Taking on the classic Le Smoking suits, Vaccarello brought back tailoring, shape and cut-offs in the SS20 collection.

Applying his signature rock-inspired aesthetic, the range saw an experiment of materials which ranged from pleated lamé skirts to chiffon blouses, as well as chic necklines, sexy silhouettes and Western-like boots. Tailored jackets and short shorts dominated the range, as well as gorgeous materials and opulent embroidery, emphasizing Saint Laurent’s luxury yet wearable aesthetic. Of course, we also saw party-ready dresses and sequin-clad pieces in true Vaccarello fashion.

All in all, the Spring/Summer 2020 range was a softer take on the signature rocker-chic aesthetic that Anthony Vaccarello has applied to Saint Laurent, with softer silhouettes and materials taking the spotlight. Consisting of a total of 87 looks, the collection was closed off by none other than Naomi Campbell, who wore a sequin two-piece suit that glittered in the spotlights.

Dior Spring Summer 2020

dior spring summer 2020

Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with Spring Summer 2020 women’s ready-to-wear collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri. It took place at the Longchamp Racecourse and celebrated nature and ecology. Chiuri opted to stage the runway in the middle of a secret woodland garden, with the models walking between the trees.

Dior notes that nature and gardens have long been a source of inspiration for its designs. It began with Christian Dior himself, who designed many an iconic floral dress, and this year’s show also paid homage to his sister Catherine who was an avid gardener.

‘It appeared essential to me that this legacy be addressed with a new perspective,’ Chuiri noted ahead of the SS20 show. ‘Flowers and plants don’t just serve an ornamental purpose, they are our environment. We have a commitment to care for them, today more than ever.’

The show guests included Jennifer Lawrence, Karlie Kloss, Jorja Smith and Erin O’Connor. The models walked down the runway sporting straw cloche hats – familiar territory for Dior, dating back to the 1960s, plus diaphanous, bohemian floral chiffon dresses.

Continuing the eco theme, the show also debuted separates embellished with nature-inspired motifs – like beadwork in the shape of thistles and skirts that resembled camouflage netting.

Dior said their show is also in keeping with its zero-waste policy and sustainability commitment, with the rest of the set being completely recyclable and plastic-free.

Chiuri expressed her wish to create an ‘inclusive garden’ and send a message of co-existence between fashion and nature, so collaborated with a company called Coloco which employs botanists, gardeners, landscape designers and urban planners. The 164 trees that featured in the show all come from different nurseries in France, Germany and Italy and will continue their journey after the show, joining sustainability projects around Paris. Each tree was tagged with a story of its origin and future destination.

Check out the entire lineup below.

 

Chanel Spring Summer 2019

Each season Chanel has transformed the Grand Palais into the most extraordinary showspaces, like turning it into a rainforest with huge cliff, trees and waterfalls to a woodland forest or by placing a giant Chanel rocket right inside the Grand Palais, which eventually even blasted off. For this season Karl Lagerfeld imagined a sandy beachscape stretching out under azure-colored skies. An enormous backdrop depicted a picture-perfect ocean. And actual waves gently lapped against the shore.

Blocks of color run through knitted cardigans, lace and denim looks in the Chanel Spring Summer 2019 collection. Lagerfeld showcased sweater dresses, that also formed part of this show’s baseline, in lightweight Lurex, origami cabin dresses trimmed with abstract beading work. Straw beach bags and visors emblazoned with the Chanel logo were presented alongside youthful swimwear boasting candy colored prints and string crop tops. A monochrome swimsuit and low slung jeans, sported by Kaia Gerber, was among the most appealing looks on the catwalk. See the entire lineup below.

Celine Spring Summer 2019

Hedi Slimane debuted his first collection for Celine Spring Summer 2019 on Friday at Paris Fashion Week and fans of the brand are not thrilled about the results. The collection was far from Phoebe Philo’s Céline.

“The entire wardrobe worn by the male models is unisex, and therefore will also be available for women,” said Heidi in the press release. Skinny ties and short skirts were the backbone of the collection, which had a distinctly ’80s vibe. Naturally, almost everything was black, although there were some pops of sparkle. See the collection in its entirety for yourself, below.