The lineup signifies the arrival of a new Gucci aesthetic, with models forgoing quirky, geeky styling for sultrier silhouettes with kinky details. In contrast to the opening looks, the collection presents “fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity.”
Filled with hard-to-miss nods to Tom Ford-era Gucci, the catwalk saw a number of sheer lace dresses with thigh-high slits paired with monogrammed panties underneath. The “G” metal emblem, resembling that of the house’s ’90s G-string designs, was placed around the neck, across the chest or on the thigh like garters. Models wore bralettes and tops with plunging necklines, and were accessorized with BDSM-esque chokers, leather gloves, retro sunglasses attached with oversized chains and studded handbags. Many even carried whips and floggers in their hands as they walked down the runway.
Scroll through the gallery to see the entire Gucci SS20 show.
It’s been 20 years since Jennifer Lopez and THAT jungle print dress melted the internet. And on Friday in Milan the superstar sent Instagram into overdrive by dusting off the iconic number to close the Versace catwalk. It was – as they say in fashion land – a moment.
The revival of the Jungle Dress didn’t end with the one worn by JLo. On the catwalk, the lush motif was splashed across cotton parkas, trouser suits and denim mini skirts, while a corresponding crystal embellishment adorned work shirts and handbags. A series of shimmering sequin cocktail dresses inspired by the print also looked set to appeal to Versace’s party-loving peacocks who may or may not be old enough to remember the dress’s first outing.
Aside from the limelight-loving palm print, the LBD was also a signature of Versace’s spring/summer 20 offering and provided the show with some of its strongest looks. Among them, Kendall Jenner’s micro-mini, Bella Hadid’s belted pinafore and Gigi’s torso-flashing jersey dress. Black leather was also a mainstay. See Edie Campbell’s biker jacket for more details.
Perhaps even more shocking addition to the catwalk than last night’s surprise guest – albeit, one less photographed – was a flat shoe. From perspex slides to gladiator sandals and bejewelled trainers, Versace said that the more casual inclusions (which also included denim) were designed to appeal to widen the brand’s appeal.
“It’s not for one woman, it’s for every woman,” said the designer, whilst, of course, clad in her signature six inch heels. There was no shortage of vertiginous versions to keep Donatella-ites happy too, including strappy spike stilettos and razor-sharp courts.
Jeremy Scott presented Moschino’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan. “Muses inspire artists, and artists inspire the world,” said Scott. Riffing on the idea that the model is a canvas and clothing can be wearable art, there was a decidedly Pablo Picasso lean to the offering. Several cocktail dresses were shaped like guitars and mandolins, including one worn by Kaia Gerber, which called to mind the artist’s Cubist renderings. Others including Bella Hadid – dressed in a sequin ruffle clown-suit invoking Picasso’s Harlequin – also carried miniature string instruments down the catwalk.
There was a Spanish essence throughout too, from Matador-inspired bolero dresses to polka-dot flamenco gowns. Proportion was also paramount, with supersize structured shoulders and poufy puffball skirts abundant.
But while Scott knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – and in generation Instagram, countless more Likes – this show wasn’t just about showstoppers designed to get iPhone cameras clicking.
Ever the astute businessman – Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, which also owns Alberta Ferretti, reported a rise in net profits of 46 per cent last year with Moschino contributing 72 per cent of the group’s total revenues – Scott was also careful to consider what would translate into retail. As a result, trouser suits decorated with hand-painted prints and a little black dress accessorised with a miniature picture frame brooch were among the collection’s – albeit more subtle – stand out pieces.
Yesterday in Milan, British designer Daniel Lee unveiled his sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta in a showcase which served to cement a new modern era for the Italian label.
Long renowned as a bastion of stealth wealth thanks to its half-century heritage as a luxury leather specialist, the 32-year-old has been successful in injecting a youthful, agenda-setting sense of relevance to the house since his arrival in July last year.
His debut collection, which was unveiled in February, was chock full of distinctive new-gen hits including square toe padded mules and leather pouch bags which have proven a regular sighting on front rows this month.
There was an evolution of this for next season, with his reworking of the signature intrecciato weave into a squishy shoe strap now among his calling cards. A pair of glitterball pumps joined them, along with huge sack-like holdalls worn across the body and chain strap shoulder bags both bearing the house weave in lieu of any logos.
Denim, pineapple print silk scarves worn as halterneck tops and cargo-pocket short suits were also among the new staples, as well as chainmail slips and asymmetric ribbed knit dresses. But leather was the star of the show, appearing in unexpected ways such as a sky blue statement greatcoat or a short tailored jumpsuit to shake up your workwear.
Miuccia Prada kicked off Milan fashion week with Prada’s Spring Summer 2020 runway show, with a new take on elegance and understatement. For the show, AMO devised a vibrant geometric pattern of ceramic tile and interlocking seating that enfolds across the hall of the Fondazione Prada Deposito – illuminated and infused with a golden glow.
See every look from the collection in the gallery below.
Burberry Spring/Summer 2020 collection was unveiled in London on September 16. Titled ‘Evolution,’ the collection is a confirmation of Riccardo Tisci’s exploration of Burberry House codes, spun through his modern lens. Set to a soundtrack curated by William Djoko. Make-up artist Pat McGrath created the beauty looks for Evolution. Check out the entire lineup below.
Lightness, easiness, freedom. Those are the ideas Victoria Beckham was thinking of for this collection. It’s about dynamic women today, women in motion.
“We took a melting pot of references and inspiration from past decades, then looked to our brand DNA and put everything together into a blender, to make a new, modern mix.
I always love contrasts. The colour is strong – brights punctuating a new palette of neutrals, and injecting ‘off’ mixes that are interesting and fresh. And there’s a play between precise masculine tailoring, and floating soft dresses that let the body breathe inside them.
These dresses are a big story – they feel alive, suspended around the body, ruffles dancing as you walk. They’re super-feminine, a little romantic. They’re in block colours but also print – which has a punch. The prints are bold, almost luminous, against dark backgrounds. They’re not like anything we’ve done before. It adds up to a new kind of sexy – no restriction, not much skin on show but a sense of the body and of the woman inside. For me it’s about that woman really feeling confident and sensual in her clothes.
Controlled and free, living life, reality and believability. There is always a duality in women, moving between different ideas, different moods. I want clothes that move with a woman, that move with her life.”
Armenian designer Natalia Alaverdian presented A.W.A.K.E. Spring Summer 2020 collection during London fashion week. As the notes observed:“The singular intention of this label continues to be removal of barriers between daywear and evening. To introduce elegant wit and subtle strangeness into the wardrobes of Alaverdian’s dedicated following.” Check out the entire lineup below.