Dior Spring Summer 2019

With this new collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri begins a new chapter devoted to the arts and feminism. It is contemporary dance celebrated as a universal language and liberating act, an art of movement.

Greeting the guests, a monumental, immaculate structure standing in the heart of the racecourse displayed several quotes: “dance, dance, otherwise we are lost”“dance is the movement of the universe concentrated in an individual”“everything must come from the heart, must be lived”, “nothing is more revealing than movement, the body says what words cannot”, “I am not interested in how people move; I’m interested in what makes them move” and “the story comes from inside the body”. 

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Dance is at this collection’s heart. Dance as a liberating act, an action of the body, a dimension that uses rhythm, movement and music to connect with the deepest part of our being. Dance and fashion define the body and, through discipline, teach us to own it.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, Creative Director of Dior women’s collections, drew inspiration from the works of a series of artists who shook up established codes in order to develop another idea of ​​the beauty of the body in motion in a new relationship with space, time and nature. These heroines of contemporary dance, Loïe Fuller, Isadora Duncan, Ruth Saint Denis, Martha Graham and Pina Bausch, revolutionized their discipline in order to reconnect it to the origins of the world, a Dionysian melange, the vital energy that powers each culture.

It’s not a question of bodily perfection, but of flexibility and strength of movement,” says Sharon Eyal, one of the most talented choreographers of our time, whom Maria Grazia Chiuri wished to associate with this show.
Christian Dior loved dance, as evidenced by the Dior archives, which contain documents illustrating his extraordinary collaboration with Roland Petit on the ballet Treize Danses, and photos of Margot Fonteyn, the dancer and House client.

The experience of dance, its most intimate truth, the fact that it is a means of universal expression, and the radicality of the gestures of contemporary dance have all stimulated my imagination,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has created a collection that reveals its essence in lightness and extreme suppleness. Bodysuits, tanks and light jumpsuits form a choreography of clothing in an infinity of nude shades, a multitude of variations, corresponding to the body’s movements. They become the base and the complements to a series of pieces in the collection, such as full and airy skirts, as well as short or long tutus. They reveal volumes specific to traditional male dance costumes, reflecting a popular culture prized by Maria Grazia Chiuri. The dresses are as ethereal as a layer of tulle, while the corset has been replaced by a simple tank. As a visual allusion to hip-hop sounds, another inspiration for part of the collection, jeans serve to emphasize the relaxed silhouette.

It is dance, as a movement art and a performative act, which suggests the kaleidoscopic motif, appearing as drawings and an extravaganza of feathers, paying tribute to Loïe Fuller’s color-soaked cinematic effects. In turn, colors fade across the light surface of dresses and skirts worn under large coats and jackets that protect the bodies upon exiting the theater. Shoes, meanwhile, are incredible creations of braided ribbon from foot to ankle, resting on the transparency of a Plexiglas heel.

The choreography of the bodies, and the bond that unites them, echoing the movement of the stars in the celestial vault, evokes the energy of the universe from which dance draws its expressions.

Energy that lies simultaneously in the control and the liberation of the body.

Energy that is both rigorous discipline and extreme freedom.

The energy that produced this collection like a sophisticated and stylish piece of choreography, and a powerful explosion of the female imagination.

Prada Spring Summer 2019

For the 2019 Spring/Summer Prada Womenswear show, AMO transforms the Deposito, the most dramatic space of the Fondazione Prada complex, into a multifunctional venue for performances.

Miuccia Prada’s Spring Summer 2019 collection studies the overlapping processes of several design practices in an unexpected dialogue between materials. Prada has invited a series of globally influential female creatives to collaborate, to devise items for women crafted from Prada’s emblematic nylon fabric.  A trio of leading female architects – Cini Boeri, Elizabeth Diller and Kazuyo Sejima – have designed unique new pieces created from Prada nylon. Check out Prada’s Spring Summer 2019 collection below.

 

 

Fendi Spring Summer 2019

Fendi’s Spring Summer 2019 collection delights in the symmetries of the natural world entwined in an urban jungle, where the pragmatic and the exotic combine. Utilitarian romance abounds in a mineral palette of sage, cognac, burgundy, tangerine, optic white, denim, and sand. The intricacies are revealed through-looking glass transparency. Tessellated patterns swirl in circles of flora and fauna across iridescent silk dresses. Check out the full lineup below.

DELPOZO Spring Summer 2019

For Spring / Summer 2019, Josep Font, creative director of Delpozo, creates a universe of contrasts between the lush clusters of wisteria trees and the colorful Murano glass artwork of the Italian Fulvio Bianconi.
The chromatic subtlety of wisterias, from white to lilac inspire Font to create the collection’s chromatic palette in which the floral patterns predominate in fabrics such as the floral fil coupé in mauve tones and a delicate tulle with sequins embroidered that bring a touch of freshness to dresses, shirts and cocktail skirts.
The floral notes acquire importance through vibrant colors such as fuchsia or red, in which printed jacquard volumes turn into structured yet light pieces.
A translucid organza with pink neon motifs and overlaid embroidered flowers in flowy dresses complete this play on textures and contrasts of Font in which organic embroidery gives the final touch to the garments.
The color symphony of the Fulvio Bianconi’s objects are captured by Font in trousers, shirts and tunics. The Murano glass is turned into fluid and relaxed designs in striped silk georgette. They reflect the unique beauty and light that radiate the Bianconi vases. Font plays with asymmetries and ruffles in pink-green and blue-coral hues; he also combines natural fabrics like linen for garments with a delicate raw appearance in shades of raspberry, aquamarine or sand and decorated with resin and mirror buttons; and, embellishes knitwear with pointelle and fringes reminiscing the leading trees.
For this season the accessories take the Murano glass as inspiration turning the Roman sandals into an ensemble of embroidery of wavy sequins contrasting with soft transparent vinyl and resin pieces modeling prisms. The new Abanico bag is introduced into the Delpozo family of accessories, in which the mix of leather and raffia creates unexpected volumes. The last touch are the delicate headpieces that fall over the models’ faces just like the branches of the wisteria tree.
The spring-summer 2019 collection is a celebration of nature and wrapped in light for the Delpozo woman.

Victoria Beckham Spring 2019

Victoria Beckham marked her 10 years in business with this first London show.

“This feels like a fresh chapter. I have got brand new investors, I’ve got a new CEO working – he started two months – there is so much more now I can do.”

Stella Tennant opened the show in an optic white suit, with an obi buckle belt. As for the collection, it was all about ease, from the roomy long dresses and trousers to the flat boots, to the textured knits, which came as long wraparound dresses or were layered under tailored jackets.

Jason Wu Spring Summer 2019

Jason Wu presented Spring 2019 collection at 60 White Street, a Historic Building in the Heart of Tribeca. The collection focuses on the core of the brand’s DNA – American couture craftsmanship, refined materials and ultra-feminine silhouettes. This goes back to everything that has held true to Jason, including his love of botanicals which have been a consistent thematic exploration in the line. Draping also takes center stage with fluid jerseys, chiffons and tulles, representing what is at the heart of the label—impeccably refined femininity.

A sense of glamour is palpable in two nude organza pieces which are embroidered with thousands of Swarovski crystals. These are arranged in clusters of “bouquets” that wrap intricately around the body. The contrast between the sheer nude organza and the extravagant crystals in natural and golden shadow hues give the pieces a seductive modern edge in a luxurious garden oasis.

 

Marc Jacobs Spring 2019

Marc Jacobs’ spring 2019 runway show started an hour-and-a-half late, presenting a collection that is a very light, sheer, pretty version of Fall. It can also be described as voluminous, in trapeze shapes, massive ruffles, pleated pants, bold shoulders, huge sleeves, enormous waist flowers. There was chiffon and sequins and lamé, gloves and bags and sparkly tights and Grace Kelly scarves. There were sling-back shoes with exaggerated pointed toes. There were little veiled Ascot hats.

“There are references to designers that have always inspired me and our past collections that have inspired me. Things that I continually go back to,” Marc Jacobs.

“I really don’t care if it’s new or old or modern or casual or dressy or whatever,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I think there are plenty of people dressing women to go to Starbucks. It’s not of interest to me. If you’re going to get dressed up, get dressed up. If you’re going to not get dressed, wear your sweats to go to Starbucks,” he said to Women’s Wear Daily.

See the entire lineup below.

 

 

Calvin Klein Spring 2019

Calvin Klein, as designed by creative director Raf Simons, debuted its Spring 2019 collection. He set his runway against a screen flashing images of ocean waves, and then the tell tale sound of the Jaws shark approaching signaled the beginning of the show. Simons stayed true to the 1975 film’s thematic elements: wetsuits, speedos and spandex helped bring it all together. When models, which included industry favorites Kaia Gerber and Doutzen Kroes, weren’t wearing latex boots or flats, they were barefoot, instead walking with their shoes in-hand.

The front row was seated by A-list stars such as Anne Hathaway, Jeff Goldblum, Jake Gyllenhaal, Anna Wintour, Rami Malek and A$AP Rocky.