Lebanese designer Elie Saab took style cues from Mexico for his Spring/Summer 2020 collection.
The designer presented his latest imaginings as part of the French capital’s Haute Couture Week on Wednesday, January 22, showcasing a dreamy affair of fluid fabrics, theatrical capes and scatterings of embellishment.
“The collection features delicately embroidered shapes and forms inspired by an Imperial Mexico,” Saab’s atelier posted on Instagram following the show.
The dazzling collection featured shades of white, cream and blush, with intricate gold detailing, while structured shoulders added a certain strength to otherwise romantic evening gowns. Check out the entire lineup below.
Jeremy Scott presented Moschino’s Spring Summer 2020 collection in Milan. “Muses inspire artists, and artists inspire the world,” said Scott. Riffing on the idea that the model is a canvas and clothing can be wearable art, there was a decidedly Pablo Picasso lean to the offering. Several cocktail dresses were shaped like guitars and mandolins, including one worn by Kaia Gerber, which called to mind the artist’s Cubist renderings. Others including Bella Hadid – dressed in a sequin ruffle clown-suit invoking Picasso’s Harlequin – also carried miniature string instruments down the catwalk.
There was a Spanish essence throughout too, from Matador-inspired bolero dresses to polka-dot flamenco gowns. Proportion was also paramount, with supersize structured shoulders and poufy puffball skirts abundant.
But while Scott knows that a picture is worth a thousand words – and in generation Instagram, countless more Likes – this show wasn’t just about showstoppers designed to get iPhone cameras clicking.
Ever the astute businessman – Moschino’s parent company Aeffe, which also owns Alberta Ferretti, reported a rise in net profits of 46 per cent last year with Moschino contributing 72 per cent of the group’s total revenues – Scott was also careful to consider what would translate into retail. As a result, trouser suits decorated with hand-painted prints and a little black dress accessorised with a miniature picture frame brooch were among the collection’s – albeit more subtle – stand out pieces.
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Yesterday in Milan, British designer Daniel Lee unveiled his sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta in a showcase which served to cement a new modern era for the Italian label.
Long renowned as a bastion of stealth wealth thanks to its half-century heritage as a luxury leather specialist, the 32-year-old has been successful in injecting a youthful, agenda-setting sense of relevance to the house since his arrival in July last year.
His debut collection, which was unveiled in February, was chock full of distinctive new-gen hits including square toe padded mules and leather pouch bags which have proven a regular sighting on front rows this month.
There was an evolution of this for next season, with his reworking of the signature intrecciato weave into a squishy shoe strap now among his calling cards. A pair of glitterball pumps joined them, along with huge sack-like holdalls worn across the body and chain strap shoulder bags both bearing the house weave in lieu of any logos.
Denim, pineapple print silk scarves worn as halterneck tops and cargo-pocket short suits were also among the new staples, as well as chainmail slips and asymmetric ribbed knit dresses. But leather was the star of the show, appearing in unexpected ways such as a sky blue statement greatcoat or a short tailored jumpsuit to shake up your workwear.
Check the lineup below.
Continue reading “Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2020”
Armenian designer Natalia Alaverdian presented A.W.A.K.E. Spring Summer 2020 collection during London fashion week. As the notes observed:“The singular intention of this label continues to be removal of barriers between daywear and evening. To introduce elegant wit and subtle strangeness into the wardrobes of Alaverdian’s dedicated following.” Check out the entire lineup below.
Held at a warehouse in the historic Brooklyn Navy Yard, Michael Kors presented his Spring 2020 collection. Inspired by a recent visit to Ellis Island with his husband, where he learned about his immigrant great-grandparent’s American beginnings, Kors sought to create a line surrounded by “newness, revival and optimism.”
Kors embodied those patriotic messages in the form of clothes, with a nationalistic palette of red, white and blue gingham, knitwear and dresses. All of the looks culminated in perhaps the simplest, yet most head-turning of them all: A navy and white sweater with the word “HATE” slashed down the middle.
“As the world gets worse, it’s the only ammunition we have,” Kors said to Vogue about his fuel behind the collection, while later tweeting: “I am a native New Yorker and I wanted this show to highlight the strength and optimism and can-do attitude of our city.”
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen showed their latest collection for The Row at their Greenwich Street studio and this season is one of the most “Olsen twins” things you’ll ever see. Think of the most precisely cut black short-sleeve camp shirt you’ve ever seen, in what appeared to be a technical fabric, cut into an A-line shape with low slant pockets, worn over black cigarette pants and transparent sandals. A pair of white carpenter pants with the perfect heft, worn with a long-sleeve white T-shirt and woven flat shoes was Everlane for the .001 percent, while a crisp navy utility pocket midi skirt with black turtleneck and blue button-down tucked in conjured #OldCeline.
There were pieces in luxe materials to look out for, of course — a tan leather whisper-weight pencil skirt, for example, worn with a lemon-yellow button down, and a crocodile trench that was an heirloom in the making.
The designers are masters of proportion, as with the considered length of a black blazer over a pleated white poplin skirt, worn with haute Tevas and socks. Or the oversized lavender oxford shirt that fell just so over rolled-up khaki pants that Miss Hepburn would love.
Embellishment was next to nonexistent, and the more dressed-up pieces had a humble glamour, as on a collaged black-lace patchwork sundress and palazzo pants, and the most charming white cotton strapless sundress with fold-over detail at the bodice. Those searching for beauty needn’t have looked far, however — it was all there in the construction.
Continue reading “The Row Spring Summer 2020”
Oscar de la Renta show transported guests to the Dominican Republic by way of brightly-colored kaftans, sheer skirts, raffia fringe, and of course, their signature gorgeous gowns.
“We really wanted to tap into the house’s Latin American roots,” designer Fernando Garcia told Vogue, who like Mr. de la Renta, is Dominican himself.
Potted green trees and other plants decorated the runway space at the Cunard building, along with blue, yellow and coral pillars.
A model kicked off the show wearing an almost-neon pink blazer over a sheer pink and creamsicle-orange one-shouldered mini dress decorated with an oversized-sheer bow that flowed down the back. The show continued to move from vacation-inspired looks—including an amazing blue gown with a plunging neckline and bow at the waist—into more evening wear styles.
Take a look at Oscar de la Renta’s Spring Summer 2020 collection below!
Tom Ford presented his Spring Summer 2020 ready-to-wear collection at the New York Fashion Week. Models including Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber showcased the look that balanced high-octane elegance with edgy Manhattan cool. Indeed a disused subway platform beneath Kenmare Street served as the backdrop.
The show opened modestly with draped Grecian gowns in lilac, delicate silk pants and baseball hats. Trouser suits worn over draped T-shirts and trapeze-style dress-coats suggested that the designer had been experimenting with covering up.
But everything that came after was classic Ford, who made his name at Gucci in the late-Nineties with a highly sexual aesthetic.
Moulded PVC bustiers, bralettes and slashed-open swimwear were among the most head-turning pieces last night, while he celebrated the power of the female form with backless tailored jumpsuits.
Coach took over the newest section of New York’s High Line on Tuesday afternoon to present its spring/summer 2020 collection – it was an apt backdrop for a collection which took the city as its starting point.
Coach designer Stuart Vevers explained that he wanted to “celebrate the city, the daylight … with our gang stomping the High Line.” New York, he explained, “has always been part of my references but it’s always been juxtaposed with the prairie or the American mid-west or a road trip”.
Prints made an appearance in the collection. Vevers is designing a collection for a new decade; the 20s. As such, he says, “it’s important to be optimistic … but that doesn’t “mean a blind optimism … not being aware of the things that are happening around us.” His take on optimism was nodded to in turquoise jumpers with pink shrimp designs and a triptych of Wine Gum-bright dresses to close the show.