Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2020

At the Cour Carrée of the Louvre Museum in Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière staged his Spring Summer 2020 collection for Louis Vuitton, against a stripped back set.

Dominating the space was a digital wall, projecting the artist Sophie’s 2017 music video “It’s Okay To Cry” in a version specially made for the occasion in collaboration with Woodkid.

Nicolas Ghesquière turned to the Belle Époque, the culturally rich period spanning the turn of the 20th century up until World War I – as the starting point for his newest collection for Louis Vuitton. As a time of great excitement and tremendous change, it also saw the founding of Louis Vuitton, the building of the family’s Art Nouveau home in Asnières, as well as the Maison’s first travels around the world. Today, for his Spring-Summer 2020 Collection, the Artistic Director of Women’s Collections circles back to the pleasures of sartorial protocol, a certain kind of dandyism that blends styles and genres.

Harking back to the fundamentals of romanticism and transposing Art Nouveau onto clothing, Ghesquière construes a community that celebrates the enthusiasm of singularity.  In this spirit, the collection adopts the evocative cattleya orchid as a sort of signature, worn on the lapel like the fanciful symbol of ultimate refinement. Louis Vuitton picks up the thread of its own history and brings together two nascent centuries, the dream-like dawn of the 20th century and the 21st century that yearns to remember it.

Chanel Spring Summer 2020

The romantic rooftops of Paris served as a fitting look-out point for Virginie Viard to unveil her first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel.

Created in the Grand Palais with chimneys sourced from flea markets, the set was one in which a modern-day Mary Poppins would have looked perfectly at home. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs” noted Viard, in her collection notes.

The collection was appropriately cinematic, with fluid silhouettes, jackets with flounce and masculine tailoring among the most photogenic looks.

Swinging black kilts worn with opaque tights, neat bouclé jackets, long-line coats and Chanel’s take on the pillbox hat created a new-look Chanel oozing with Gallic glamour. Stand-out pieces included an ivory puffball skirt worn by Kaia Gerber. Gigi Hadid was also on the catwalk in black micro shorts and embroidered jacket. Chanel has a new-found modernity and subtle femininity in Viard’s hands. But it has continuity too.

Her rise from long-standing Chanel employee and the right hand of Karl Lagerfeld up until his death from cancer earlier this year represents no sea change for the brand. As a result, Viard’s collections have a quiet confidence that can only stem from experience. Her success will depend on whether she can breathe her own spirit into this house.

Continue reading “Chanel Spring Summer 2020”

Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2020

With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm of the label, YSL showcased its Spring/Summer 2020 collection last night in front of a gorgeous Parisian backdrop.

This year the Parisian label erected a runway complete with light beams opposite the Eiffel Tower at night, turning the show into one of the biggest events during the week.

As for the collection Anthony Vaccarello took inspiration from what Yves Saint Laurent created throughout the 20th century and channeled it into a modern and contemporary design. Taking on the classic Le Smoking suits, Vaccarello brought back tailoring, shape and cut-offs in the SS20 collection.

Applying his signature rock-inspired aesthetic, the range saw an experiment of materials which ranged from pleated lamé skirts to chiffon blouses, as well as chic necklines, sexy silhouettes and Western-like boots. Tailored jackets and short shorts dominated the range, as well as gorgeous materials and opulent embroidery, emphasizing Saint Laurent’s luxury yet wearable aesthetic. Of course, we also saw party-ready dresses and sequin-clad pieces in true Vaccarello fashion.

All in all, the Spring/Summer 2020 range was a softer take on the signature rocker-chic aesthetic that Anthony Vaccarello has applied to Saint Laurent, with softer silhouettes and materials taking the spotlight. Consisting of a total of 87 looks, the collection was closed off by none other than Naomi Campbell, who wore a sequin two-piece suit that glittered in the spotlights.

Dior Spring Summer 2020

dior spring summer 2020

Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with Spring Summer 2020 women’s ready-to-wear collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri. It took place at the Longchamp Racecourse and celebrated nature and ecology. Chiuri opted to stage the runway in the middle of a secret woodland garden, with the models walking between the trees.

Dior notes that nature and gardens have long been a source of inspiration for its designs. It began with Christian Dior himself, who designed many an iconic floral dress, and this year’s show also paid homage to his sister Catherine who was an avid gardener.

‘It appeared essential to me that this legacy be addressed with a new perspective,’ Chuiri noted ahead of the SS20 show. ‘Flowers and plants don’t just serve an ornamental purpose, they are our environment. We have a commitment to care for them, today more than ever.’

The show guests included Jennifer Lawrence, Karlie Kloss, Jorja Smith and Erin O’Connor. The models walked down the runway sporting straw cloche hats – familiar territory for Dior, dating back to the 1960s, plus diaphanous, bohemian floral chiffon dresses.

Continuing the eco theme, the show also debuted separates embellished with nature-inspired motifs – like beadwork in the shape of thistles and skirts that resembled camouflage netting.

Dior said their show is also in keeping with its zero-waste policy and sustainability commitment, with the rest of the set being completely recyclable and plastic-free.

Chiuri expressed her wish to create an ‘inclusive garden’ and send a message of co-existence between fashion and nature, so collaborated with a company called Coloco which employs botanists, gardeners, landscape designers and urban planners. The 164 trees that featured in the show all come from different nurseries in France, Germany and Italy and will continue their journey after the show, joining sustainability projects around Paris. Each tree was tagged with a story of its origin and future destination.

Check out the entire lineup below.

 

Gucci Spring Summer 2020

Gucci Spring Summer 2020 collection was presented at the Gucci Hub during Milan Fashion Week. Clean lines and intense lighting, the show space was imagined by the creative director Alessandro Michele.

The lineup signifies the arrival of a new Gucci aesthetic, with models forgoing quirky, geeky styling for sultrier silhouettes with kinky details. In contrast to the opening looks, the collection presents “fashion as a way to allow people to walk through fields of possibilities, cultivate beauty, make diversity sacrosanct and celebrate the self in expression and identity.”

Filled with hard-to-miss nods to Tom Ford-era Gucci, the catwalk saw a number of sheer lace dresses with thigh-high slits paired with monogrammed panties underneath. The “G” metal emblem, resembling that of the house’s ’90s G-string designs, was placed around the neck, across the chest or on the thigh like garters. Models wore bralettes and tops with plunging necklines, and were accessorized with BDSM-esque chokers, leather gloves, retro sunglasses attached with oversized chains and studded handbags. Many even carried whips and floggers in their hands as they walked down the runway.

Scroll through the gallery to see the entire Gucci SS20 show.

Versace Spring Summer 2020

Versace - Runway - Milan Fashion Week S/S 2020, Italy - 20 Sep 2019
Mandatory Credit: Photo by DANIEL DAL ZENNARO/EPA-EFE/Shutterstock (10419762d) US actress Jennifer Lopez presents a creation by Versace during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 20 September 2019. Spring-Summer 2020 women’s collections are presented at the Milano Moda Donna from 17 to 23 September. Versace – Runway – Milan Fashion Week S/S 2020, Italy – 20 Sep 2019

It’s been 20 years since Jennifer Lopez and THAT jungle print dress melted the internet. And on Friday in Milan the superstar sent Instagram into overdrive by dusting off the iconic number to close the Versace catwalk. It was – as they say in fashion land – a moment.

The revival of the Jungle Dress didn’t end with the one worn by JLo. On the catwalk, the lush motif was splashed across cotton parkas, trouser suits and denim mini skirts, while a corresponding crystal embellishment adorned work shirts and handbags. A series of shimmering sequin cocktail dresses inspired by the print also looked set to appeal to Versace’s party-loving peacocks who may or may not be old enough to remember the dress’s first outing.

Aside from the limelight-loving palm print, the LBD was also a signature of Versace’s spring/summer 20 offering and provided the show with some of its strongest looks. Among them, Kendall Jenner’s micro-mini, Bella Hadid’s belted pinafore and Gigi’s torso-flashing jersey dress. Black leather was also a mainstay. See Edie Campbell’s biker jacket for more details.

Perhaps even more shocking addition to the catwalk than last night’s surprise guest – albeit, one less photographed – was a flat shoe. From perspex slides to gladiator sandals and bejewelled trainers, Versace said that the more casual inclusions (which also included denim) were designed to appeal to widen the brand’s appeal.

“It’s not for one woman, it’s for every woman,” said the designer, whilst, of course, clad in her signature six inch heels. There was no shortage of vertiginous versions to keep Donatella-ites happy too, including strappy spike stilettos and razor-sharp courts.

 

Continue reading “Versace Spring Summer 2020”

Prada Spring Summer 2020

Miuccia Prada kicked off Milan fashion week with Prada’s Spring Summer 2020 runway show, with a new take on elegance and understatement. For the show, AMO devised a vibrant geometric pattern of ceramic tile and interlocking seating that enfolds across the hall of the Fondazione Prada Deposito – illuminated and infused with a golden glow.

See every look from the collection in the gallery below.

Burberry Spring Summer 2020 | EVOLUTION

Burberry Spring/Summer 2020 collection was unveiled in London on September 16. Titled ‘Evolution,’ the collection is a confirmation of Riccardo Tisci’s exploration of Burberry House codes, spun through his modern lens. Set to a soundtrack curated by William Djoko. Make-up artist Pat McGrath created the beauty looks for Evolution. Check out the entire lineup below.